3d printer the c3dt/bd (big delta)
by：SAN
2019-11-26
C3Dt/bd is my latest 3D printer design and I have been working hard on various manufacturers Faires, especially on the Midwest RepRap Festival 2019.
It\'s big and accurate, and most importantly, most of its parts are off the shelf.
Here are some features of C3Dt/bd: fair warning, this is not a budget printer.
Parts can easily reach thousands of parts, but you can get a printer from it that works well.
This is my first increment and I am concerned about calibration and trouble shooting, but I find that by combining the parts/features above, compared to some other printers I designed, this setting is a children\'s game.
For those of you who see this printer up close, you will know that its special feature is the convertible bed that allows the bed to move its position.
This construct does not currently include the feature.
However, once I provide this feature, I will point out the design/purchase differences that allow you to upgrade to this feature.
Statement: I am an affiliate of Amazon and any purchases you make via my link (please do)
Give me a small commission.
It does not include my fees, but allows me to buy some filaments from time to time.
As I mentioned in my introduction, this is not a budget printer.
The cost of my parts is close to $4000.
The following part is mainly from the US and I chose the high quality linear guide rail for THK.
So far, these rails are the most expensive parts of this printer.
You can buy cheaper (Or use on eBay)
But keep in mind that cheap tracks can lead to lower print quality (
Such a big printer is a pity).
Hardware straight line rail 1630mm x 3 $1,194.
00: rail seat x3 * $33300 arms (360mm)
$79.
99: Aluminum Casting 1/4 inch x 330mm $55 for Filastruder bed. 00 (Ask for quote)
Gt2 belt 10 m x 2 $25. 76 20 teeth 6.
$9 on 35mm pulley.
$3 for 19 20 tooth idlers.
99 brackets $51.
Extrusion $224 (plus shipping)
: $105 Flex Tablet system. 00: BuildTak.
ComPEI table 12 \"x 12\" $19.
95: double sided adhesive for 12 \"x 12\" $14.
99: $89 extruder. 99: (wheels)$12.
00: The home of de potzlinki (
Yes, that\'s right)$5. 93 $11.
10: 23 step shock absorber $11. 99 Hooks $3. 79: $12. 99: sheet $15. 61: $169. 99: FilaStruder.
$64 Com Delta Smart pilot. 99: Filastruder.
Com panel expires 7i $99. 99: Filastruder.
The $114 step motor x3.
00: 17 step motor x1 $10.
98: $65 silicone bed.
50: status relay (SSR)$7.
99: Fan 24 v 40mm $9.
99: $19. 99: Filastruder.
$14 per share. 99: Filastruder.
$24 V 7 com heated cartridge. 99: Filastruder.
An average of $44 24 v PSU.
99: Specification wire for heater $10.
The market price is $16.
95: 5: 29 Mail power socket with $6 power cord.
47: $7 for wiring fork.
82: $9 connection shovel quick connector.
99: $13.
$10. 95 strip (8 pos)$12.
End of style stop $9. 90: cables (40m)$38.
00: $8 connector kit. 99: Tubing $8. 37: t-nut (300)$40. 10 AliExpress.
$12 comM4 20mm hex screw.
99: 10mm hex screws for $12.
99: 16mm hex screws for $12.
99 20mm hex screws for $10.
99 10mm hex screws for $9. 38 T-nuts (150)$30.
00: 20mm hex screws for $9.
14mm hex screws for $25: 8.
95: 16mm hex screws for $9.
25: 25mm hex screws for $12.
99: $12 long m3 hex screws.
99: $6.
99: $14 for transfer. 99: $5.
Flat hex nut for $99: 9.
62: $2 for McMaster CarrM4 lock washer.
71: $8 for McMaster CarrM4 10mm hex screws.
79: $8 M4 8mm hex sleeve screw.
79: $5 zip tie.
99: 10 3/4 \"washing machine $10.
95: screw 4 3/4 \"$9.
98: $84 PETG x4. 00: $x3 $60.
00: 6 in the case of a future upgrade to a removable bed, we will add more and more cabling, all of which come together at one point and connect to the motherboard.
It may not have to be said, but, mark all your wires.
Use some blue tape to write in a loose place where they come from (
Step 1, step 2, radiator fan, cooling fan, bed thermal resistor, etc.
After your wire is tucked away, tracking it can be a bit challenging.
The Duet Wifi board, Delta smart actuator and panel are all equipped with a proper amount of connectors (and then some)
But you need to provide your own ferrules, jst connectors, fork at the other end of the cable.
You will need the following tools: stripping tool: pressing tool: steps can be repeated for each of the 3 towers in this Delta printer.
The design is specific design using 1515 extrusion.
The use of different sizes of extrusion can damage many 3D printed parts.
Required parts: fasteners 3d printed parts * two compartments/blocks for future upgrades to required movable bed parts: fasteners 3d printed parts roller brackets are attached to the top (Make the edge meet)of the tower.
It is used to guide the belt and connect to the frame holder.
In order to hold the frame correctly, I put the angle bracket with M6 nut (
And most other framework components).
Corner stand from Amazon with M3 holes.
Drill the hole on the corner bracket with a 1/4 bit on both sides, as shown in the corner bracket image (
Yellow Circle)
Both sides do so.
For the assembly, insert the roller into the slot and \"weave\" the 30mm screw through its center.
Insert the hex nut in the placeholder on the back of the roller holder and tighten the m3 screw (
Don\'t be too tight because it means keeping ilder in place.
Insert 4 Square nuts into the placeholder at the top and bottom to receive 4 20mm screws that connect the corner holder to the roller holder.
Since the square nut can be under considerable pressure, you can tighten it.
You can already insert 16mm M6 bolts and related t-
Nut, and place it at the extrusion, the top is flush with the extrusion top.
The top and bottom of the bracket can be judged by the length of the M6 screw socket.
The top is shorter than the bottom.
Required parts: fasteners 3d printed parts connect the shock absorber to the Japanese 23 motor using 2 m4 screws (10mm)
And m4 nut with lock head connect the corner bracket to the shock absorber using 2 m4 (8mm)
M4 nut with lock washer.
Before tightening, rotate the entire csm 23 about 8 degrees, as seen in the online box image.
Connect 20 teeth pully to the Neptune axis as shown in the figure (
Tighten the nut to keep it away from the standard)
Please do not connect the standard that meets the standard to the standard bracket that meets the standard.
It needs to be connected to the track first (
Due to center bolts).
Insert 5 square nuts into the socket at the bottom (3)and the top (2).
I suggest putting some glue (
Or hot glue, keep them in place when corner brackets are connected.
Insert 3 M6 16mm bolt and connect t-nuts.
Insert the 23 bracket that meets the film standard during the aluminum extrusion process and move it so that the bottom is flush with the squeezed bottom.
After tightening the 3 M6 bolts that hold the bracket on the tower, insert the AC assembly and connect with a 5 m³ 25mm screw.
Required parts: fasteners for this building I chose to use the connecting holes per second on the track, not all.
If you would like to make the most of every hole in the track, use 13 screws and t-nuts more.
Adding a linear guide to the extrusion can be a tricky part.
The problem is the order of assembly.
You can try adding each screw and t-
Before putting the track into the extrusion, some t-appears in the nut-
The nuts rotate freely in the groove and never connect or rotate 90 degrees so they don\'t grab the squeeze at all.
I used a little trick to place t-
The NUT is in place before adding the track, but it does need to sacrifice the old tape measure.
See this video here: when placing t-
The NUT is in the appropriate position, and the linear guide rail is 45mm from the bottom of the roller bracket.
This leaves all the space to upgrade to the removable bed, as well as enough endstop chassis space.
Tighten the screw and rail tail first.
This allows you to precisely locate the center at both ends (
Don\'t tighten too much).
Now, from one end to the other, continue to tighten the other screws until the middle.
Do so on several passes as needed.
This long track is easy to bend, so make sure that the distance of the squeezed edge is equal across the track. End-
Stopping and configuring should actually prevent the carriage from rolling the track, however, just in case, insert a bare M6 20mm bolt with t-
Nuts at both ends of the track and tighten.
When the screw pushes the center of the extrusion, it will tighten itself in place.
* If you would like to upgrade to a removable bed at some point that you need later, get two pieces: the fastener 3d printing part the shipping adapter on this increment provides several features.
Assembly is quite direct.
Add the magnetic ball diagonally to the existing hole, insert the square nut into the square hole and tighten it.
Insert the square nut into the center of the bracket adapter and insert the 45mm screw slot through the bracket adapter body.
Don\'t screw too far.
It\'s enough to go through the nuts.
Insert hook screw in pre-drilled (printed really)
There are holes in the front center of the car adapter body.
Attach the bracket adapter with 4 M5 10mm screws to the rail block/bracket.
With two end brackets (Idler and Nema)
Now you can add the belt to the tower along with the carriage adapter.
Take the 4 m belt and \"weave\" it through the idler wheel and usb adapter, make sure it wraps around the pulley and idler wheel, and connect the end on the transport adapter.
When adding the belt to the adapter, make sure there is enough room for the tension screw to tighten.
Fold the end of the belt above the meeting of the teeth (and interlock)
And insert the adapter around the first socket.
Walk around first and don\'t worry about physical discomfort for the time being.
After inserting the slot, you can tighten it (
Don\'t give it too much slack, as the screw tightening can only correct so much.
You can use tension screws to remove slack, but I will keep full tension until the whole frame is together (
We don\'t want it to bow to the whole tower).
Required parts: Fasteners: printer parts: endstop is installed on each tower and the printer goes home after printing and before printing.
C3Dt/bd adopts a mechanical end block in the style of makerbot.
Let\'s say that when I design, the electronics will be placed (
Middle position of printer height)
You need a longer cable than the cable provided by the stock End station.
You can weld on the existing extra wires or you can re-Weld
Curled longer.
I curl up new wires in my building (
Because you will have to re-
Curl ends on Duet Wifi anyway).
The Makerbot-style terminal stops using the 4-pin JST connector, but only 3-pin is connected (
Vin, gnd and signal).
The length of the edge is about one end of the stepping line of 2 m (
Just tear off the fourth station cable)
Same as the original cable that came with the final stop.
Connect the new wire to the end stop and insert the End Stop cover, pass the M3 screw 16mm through the housing and add t-nut.
Connect the shell to the tower at the top of the straight track.
Make the end stop sensor outside the edge of the track (easily 8mm)
Due to the shape of the carriage and the potential grease nipples may hit the end of the guide rail before reaching the end point.
Rinse the second and third towers and Repeat steps 3 to 8.
Make-up is the same.
Required parts: fasteners 3d printed parts we need to prepare an external corner bracket to accommodate M6 screws before connecting anything.
Drill the hole on the corner bracket with a 1/4 bit on both sides, as shown in the corner bracket image (
Yellow Circle)
Both sides do so.
As shown in the figure, you can also drill out two center holes, although I find I can go through there without extra drilling (
It might add a bit of strength, not drill it).
At the bottom of the track: Repeat the process at the top of the tower.
After connecting all 4 418mm of the extrusion, you can add the outer corner stand.
6 M6 screws and 6 T-for each external corner bracket-nuts (
There are 40 on the corner and 2 on the center back panel).
Repeat this process by adding the second and third rails.
The third one will be more complicated because you are working on an open triangle at this time.
But the process is the same.
After adding all the towers, you will get the printer frame shown in the image (
Minus the moving bed mechanism, it is the upgrade to be released later).
Flying extruder is not uncommon on Delta printer.
A larger printer like this would almost have to have one, as installing the extruder on the frame would result in a very long Bowden tube.
For C3Dt/bd, I took it to a new level by suspending the flight extruder from the bracket adapter and the unique wire management system (i. e.
First time using Slinky in 3D printer).
I have also designed the extruder, which has a stand that can be exchanged for one with three \"thumb\" screws, or simply remove it for maintenance.
Required parts: fastener 3d printer PartsCut 3 PCs 90mm 8mm screw, wrapped with woven sleeve.
Add 20mm shrink tubes at both ends for all 3 sticks and heat them.
Cut off the extra sleeves.
Insert three rods into the center ring (
Not necessarily tight fit as once it stays in place in the frame).
Add M6 20mm screws to all three center brackets and attach T-Nuts.
Hold the whole Slinky (be patient)
And add 1/4 shrink tube at both ends and heating.
Use the \"channel\" on the surface of the ring to connect slinky to the center ring and place 4 closed zippers on the top.
Insert 3 cup hooks into the extruder ring and insert 3 20mm screws through the extruder ring.
Connect the bottom end of slinky to the extrusion using the \"channel\" and use the zipper to connect.
Assemble the BMG extruder and stepping motor as shown in the figure.
Cut 3 pieces of latex around 11 cm.
I wrapped them up with woven sleeves (
Flexible like everyone else).
When applying it, make sure there is enough bending in the weave.
Work one end of the latex on the cuphook on the center ring, and work the other end on the Cup hook on the compartment adapter.
Do this for all three hooks on the center ring.
Warning: this part of the process is one of two steps that is exposed to a 110 V power supply.
I designed a closed case so it was safe when it was done.
Please be careful that a voltage of 110 volts will hurt you, not to mention 220 Volts if you are elsewhere in the world.
Parts need fasteners 3d printed parts original C3Dt/bd, I have an aluminum plate of 1/4 \"330mm.
I recently discovered the suppliers I purchased from there and no longer cut 1/4 of the aluminum.
He still cuts 1/8 inch aluminum, which is actually the size of most printer beds.
Reach out and ask him for a disc 330mm in diameter.
If you use the PETG print bed fixture, please note that the glass transition temperature of the PETG is about 80 degrees Celsius, so heating the bed above may start to distort the fixture.
If you plan to exceed the temperature of 80 beds, it is better to print these with ABS.
However, there will be a layer of Cork between the bed and the plastic, so PETG may work well.
I use the BuildTak flexplate system for all my 3D printers.
I once created a magnetic bed myself, which is not worth the trouble at all.
BuildTak\'s largest disc flexible plate system has a diameter of 12 \", which is enough for this building.
They do cut the actual flexplate steel to the right size on request.
BuildTak can provide their proprietary building surfaces or PEI plates.
I have become a huge fan of PEI.
The first layer of glue is great and it pops up once the print is done.
The heating bed uses a 110 V keenfeld silicone heater.
There is a choice of 12 volts, but it takes a long time to heat the 330mm bed at 12 volts.
Keentro silicon pads are equipped with integrated wires and thermal resistance wires.
Actually, I made a note before upgrading to 110 V, which you can find here: the important part of this build is the schematic diagram in the image contained here.
Instead of lifting the 12 V power cord from the controller board, they went straight to the bed and instead went to the solid state relay (SSR)instead.
The 110 V wire will come directly from the PSU and the live wire will pass through the SSR.
This means that you need to connect enough number 22 wires to reach the PSU (
Around 80 cm of my design)
And enough wires to reach the SRR and the thermal resistor wires from the control board (
About 150 cm in this design).
To do this, you can use a 4-wire stepping wire.
You can connect the SSR with one m3 screw (14mm)and M3 T-
Nut on frame.
I recommend wrapping 110 V wires with separate woven sleeves of all 12 v wires (
And put some marking tape to identify it).
If you plan to upgrade to a removable bed when this feature is available, add a second \"spare\" stepping wire (4 strands)
From the control panel to the wiring sleeve.
Warning: this part of the process is one of two steps that is exposed to a 110 V power supply.
I designed a closed case so it was safe when it was done.
Please be careful that a voltage of 110 volts will hurt you, not to mention 220 Volts if you are elsewhere in the world.
Parts for C3Dt/bd require fasteners and I have used an average of 24 v PSU.
Connect the wire to the PSU using a fork connector and the quick wire to the power switch.
This is the right thing to do.
The correct wiring can be seen in the image above.
Before the end, it might be a good idea to check if the live wire is really live.
Insert and open, test with a v table (
You really need to have it if you are 110 V field wiring and know how to use it, one).
If you change Live to Neutral by mistake, things will run as expected, but when you turn off the printer (via switch)
Power still exists.
Before closing the power unit, run the 24 v output line through the holes provided on the side.
Technically you only need one pair to power the duo Wifi, but if you want to be ready for future extensions (
Such as LED or other foreseeable electronic equipment)
I recommend putting the line for all three output pairs on the power unit.
Since the heating bed operates at a voltage of 110 V, it is also extended by 110 V when the output wire is long enough to reach the heating bed (
About 80 cm about this design).
Parts require fasteners 3d printed part template files this situation is designed to rotate from the rear tower of the printer.
All incoming and outgoing lines come from the left opening of the box.
Make sure that the opening at the top and bottom is cleared as airflow is required to cool the MCU and step drive.
I highly recommend that you cut acrylic into the right size with a cutter designed for this task.
It will be regrettable to try this with a Stanley knife (
Very hard to learn).
You can drill holes according to drawings (pdf files)
Alternatively, you can simply place a 3D printed corner block on an acrylic resin and use it as a guide for drilling.
I have designed to secure the top plate with thumb screws so you can remove and maintain the board and/or wiring easily.
To prevent the square nut from falling off, I used a little hot glue on the cavity after inserting the square nut to catch the thumb screw.
On C3Dt/bd, the enclosure is installed about 105 cm from the ground (
To the bottom of the case).
You can hang it somewhere else, but if you do make sure all the wires get to it.
Need to print part Delta Smart pilot combined with Duet Wifi makes it very easy to use delta.
Built-in adapter-
The piezoelectric material of the bed can be detected.
This function is combined with bed detection, making it easy to calibrate delta (
Generally speaking, a bigger obstacle to the establishment of the Delta).
The Delta Smart actuator is equipped with an actual actuator and three brackets.
No brackets are required, as this design uses a bracket adapter for a custom design that already exists on the tower.
I will not go into the detailed settings in this Instructure because the product documentation is doing a good job.
You can find everything here: warning, don\'t skip the part of the glue.
With the E3D radiator, the Stock Delta Smart cooler is suitable for the e3d cooling fan, but the sound is loud.
I designed a new fan cover to handle part cooling and radiator cooling with 2 40mm fans.
There are 14 wires leading to the wiring of the Delta Smart Extruder, but don\'t forget to fly the extruder (
About 200mm above).
4 step lines are required to operate the extruder.
So when casing the wire, make sure you also consider the stepping motor wire (
18 shares in total).
The printed dual fan adapter is a mix and match designed by Rod Smith and fits perfectly, but does.
It may take a little bend to wear it.
When connecting the magnetic arm to the actuator, I was most fortunate to have put the opposite rods together at the magnetic ball adjacent to the actuator.
You may have to play this game, but these magnetic arms will affect the operation of the fans below.
When I connect them \"wrong\", once the probe bed fails due to continued false positives on the probe. re-
Arrange the magnetic arm to fix this.
At this point, you can also add bowden tubes between the extruder and the Delta smart actuator.
I use parts that need fasteners. I have to admit that the touch screen on this printer is good but a bit redundant.
Except at the show, I control almost everything on this printer through the web interface.
For C3Dt/bd, I chose a simple 4-pin connection instead of a more complex wiring when using the card reader on the LCD.
The chassis I designed here does not have access to the micro SD card.
It\'s too easy to upload files directly from your computer to handle this problem.
In my design, I used more than 2 m of wires so I could have the LCD in my hand while working at the bottom of the printer.
The Duet Wifi comes with all the connectors you need to curl all the wires.
Despite all the previous steps, I believe I have left enough length on all the lines to get to the controller board.
The wires can all easily be hidden in aluminum extrusion and meet in the middle of the contoller chassis.
I\'m not going to go into the wiring instructions in detail as the Duet documentation details all of this on their website: pointers: for this printer we connect 4 stepping motors (X, Y, Z and E0)
Corresponding to drive 0 to 3, we use 3 end stops corresponding to X Stop, Y Stop and Z stop (
Make sure you have GND and 3.
Correct 3 v connector).
Delta smart actuator probe has a dedicated Z-PROBE (
Expired connection next to panel)
Connection on the Duet Wifi board.
The two fans connected to the controller holder are connected in parallel with the PWM Fan 2 connector.
The part cooling fan is connected to the PWM fan 0 radiator cooling fan is connected to the PWM fan 1 LCD is connected to the panel as there is a 4-pin connector on the board (
Next to the Z probe connector).
Two thermal resistors (bed and hot-end)
Related connectors connected to the board.
My favorite duet Wifi (
Its firmware is the ability to configure everything with g-codes.
There is no need to re-inflate your board every time there is any change.
The introduction to Duet Wifi is described in detail in the Duet online documentation and there are some necessary steps to connect to home wifi.
The connection document will direct you to the cabling (
And related settings)
This setting can skip steps 11, 15, 16, 17, 20, after which you can start the configuration (
The first general Descartes)
Here you can find the difference in the incremental printer: Step 12 uses the following: for Step 16, use the following: go from there to the configuration specifically for the incremental printer, you need to put the parameters of the incremental printer into the move section.
This is what C3Dt/c looks like.
Note that your height may be slightly different.
When your actuator comes home, measure the distance between the end of the nozzle and your bed.
This is the usage of the H parameter.
I have configured my fan for different purposes.
The radiator fan will only open when the hotend reaches 45 CelciusThe Controller board fan. The radiator fan will only start up when the MCU reaches 40 degrees Celsius or the stepping driver is overheated. Slicer software
I have attached my configuration. H and homedelta.
But note that some values may be different in your implementation.
The configuration of the automatic calibration settings can be found here: there is a wizard that will generate the bed. g file for you.
Note: The M558 probe command in the configuration.
H use a probe of H5 to 5mm on the bed.
Change it to something bigger for the first time (like H20)
Put your finger off-
Just in case it drill to the button on the bed.
Also test the Delta smart actuator before the first real probe to make sure its sensor is working properly.
See the video below: After completing the first probe (G32)
Information is stored in configuration-override. g files.
If you spend a lot of money and effort making this printer, I have to assume that you know how to print it in 3D (
This is not to start the printer).
I would suggest starting with a 3d benchy or other calibration model.
Here is an article about this bedI, and I am often asked why I bought such a high printer with such a small bed.
First of all, I want to point out that the 330mm diameter is larger than most commercial printers,
Nothing in this design can stop you from buying a bigger bed.
I\'m currently using 418mm vertical extrusion, but if you want to use a larger size, just lengthen those and use a larger bed.
However, it is rarely considered before you do it.
With a bigger bed (
Diameter 600mm)
Means: for example, using a bed with a diameter of 500mm means about 532mm of the arm (
Based on 20 degrees angle)
And that means not 1240mm z-
Height, you will leave 1068mm zheight.
The bed with a diameter of 600mm means about 638mm of the arm (
Based on 20 degrees angle)
And that means not 1240mm z-
Height, you will leave 960mm zheight.
The bed with a diameter of 1000mm means about 1064mm of the arm (
Based on 20 degrees angle)
And that means not 1240mm z-
Height, you\'re left at 536mm. z-height.
In the latter case, half of the total size of the printer will be used for arm movement, not for print height.
Removable beds some of you may be disappointed as this note does not include the removable beds seen on youtube and may even include some live performances (
Like maker faires or MRRF).
I will eventually add it to this structure or as a separate structure.
I won\'t do that until I have a budget for next year.
You can jump to gofundme to speed up.
Once I \'ve reached my goal, I\'ll be able to move on to the next project and get the old open source project.
It\'s interesting to build this printer.
Compared to all my previous models, I was very surprised by the quality of the print (
I3 elever, core XY) i3.
View and subscribe to my youtube channel, which will provide a large number of videos using C3Dt/bd.
This is the biggest print I \'ve ever made: too big?
Fully understood.
This is very big. most people don\'t need such a large printer.
If you still want to make a printer, check out my smaller but fully functional cantilever printer C3Dt/c. You can find its instructions here: simply put, some images of the printer after and during the build.
It\'s big and accurate, and most importantly, most of its parts are off the shelf.
Here are some features of C3Dt/bd: fair warning, this is not a budget printer.
Parts can easily reach thousands of parts, but you can get a printer from it that works well.
This is my first increment and I am concerned about calibration and trouble shooting, but I find that by combining the parts/features above, compared to some other printers I designed, this setting is a children\'s game.
For those of you who see this printer up close, you will know that its special feature is the convertible bed that allows the bed to move its position.
This construct does not currently include the feature.
However, once I provide this feature, I will point out the design/purchase differences that allow you to upgrade to this feature.
Statement: I am an affiliate of Amazon and any purchases you make via my link (please do)
Give me a small commission.
It does not include my fees, but allows me to buy some filaments from time to time.
As I mentioned in my introduction, this is not a budget printer.
The cost of my parts is close to $4000.
The following part is mainly from the US and I chose the high quality linear guide rail for THK.
So far, these rails are the most expensive parts of this printer.
You can buy cheaper (Or use on eBay)
But keep in mind that cheap tracks can lead to lower print quality (
Such a big printer is a pity).
Hardware straight line rail 1630mm x 3 $1,194.
00: rail seat x3 * $33300 arms (360mm)
$79.
99: Aluminum Casting 1/4 inch x 330mm $55 for Filastruder bed. 00 (Ask for quote)
Gt2 belt 10 m x 2 $25. 76 20 teeth 6.
$9 on 35mm pulley.
$3 for 19 20 tooth idlers.
99 brackets $51.
Extrusion $224 (plus shipping)
: $105 Flex Tablet system. 00: BuildTak.
ComPEI table 12 \"x 12\" $19.
95: double sided adhesive for 12 \"x 12\" $14.
99: $89 extruder. 99: (wheels)$12.
00: The home of de potzlinki (
Yes, that\'s right)$5. 93 $11.
10: 23 step shock absorber $11. 99 Hooks $3. 79: $12. 99: sheet $15. 61: $169. 99: FilaStruder.
$64 Com Delta Smart pilot. 99: Filastruder.
Com panel expires 7i $99. 99: Filastruder.
The $114 step motor x3.
00: 17 step motor x1 $10.
98: $65 silicone bed.
50: status relay (SSR)$7.
99: Fan 24 v 40mm $9.
99: $19. 99: Filastruder.
$14 per share. 99: Filastruder.
$24 V 7 com heated cartridge. 99: Filastruder.
An average of $44 24 v PSU.
99: Specification wire for heater $10.
The market price is $16.
95: 5: 29 Mail power socket with $6 power cord.
47: $7 for wiring fork.
82: $9 connection shovel quick connector.
99: $13.
$10. 95 strip (8 pos)$12.
End of style stop $9. 90: cables (40m)$38.
00: $8 connector kit. 99: Tubing $8. 37: t-nut (300)$40. 10 AliExpress.
$12 comM4 20mm hex screw.
99: 10mm hex screws for $12.
99: 16mm hex screws for $12.
99 20mm hex screws for $10.
99 10mm hex screws for $9. 38 T-nuts (150)$30.
00: 20mm hex screws for $9.
14mm hex screws for $25: 8.
95: 16mm hex screws for $9.
25: 25mm hex screws for $12.
99: $12 long m3 hex screws.
99: $6.
99: $14 for transfer. 99: $5.
Flat hex nut for $99: 9.
62: $2 for McMaster CarrM4 lock washer.
71: $8 for McMaster CarrM4 10mm hex screws.
79: $8 M4 8mm hex sleeve screw.
79: $5 zip tie.
99: 10 3/4 \"washing machine $10.
95: screw 4 3/4 \"$9.
98: $84 PETG x4. 00: $x3 $60.
00: 6 in the case of a future upgrade to a removable bed, we will add more and more cabling, all of which come together at one point and connect to the motherboard.
It may not have to be said, but, mark all your wires.
Use some blue tape to write in a loose place where they come from (
Step 1, step 2, radiator fan, cooling fan, bed thermal resistor, etc.
After your wire is tucked away, tracking it can be a bit challenging.
The Duet Wifi board, Delta smart actuator and panel are all equipped with a proper amount of connectors (and then some)
But you need to provide your own ferrules, jst connectors, fork at the other end of the cable.
You will need the following tools: stripping tool: pressing tool: steps can be repeated for each of the 3 towers in this Delta printer.
The design is specific design using 1515 extrusion.
The use of different sizes of extrusion can damage many 3D printed parts.
Required parts: fasteners 3d printed parts * two compartments/blocks for future upgrades to required movable bed parts: fasteners 3d printed parts roller brackets are attached to the top (Make the edge meet)of the tower.
It is used to guide the belt and connect to the frame holder.
In order to hold the frame correctly, I put the angle bracket with M6 nut (
And most other framework components).
Corner stand from Amazon with M3 holes.
Drill the hole on the corner bracket with a 1/4 bit on both sides, as shown in the corner bracket image (
Yellow Circle)
Both sides do so.
For the assembly, insert the roller into the slot and \"weave\" the 30mm screw through its center.
Insert the hex nut in the placeholder on the back of the roller holder and tighten the m3 screw (
Don\'t be too tight because it means keeping ilder in place.
Insert 4 Square nuts into the placeholder at the top and bottom to receive 4 20mm screws that connect the corner holder to the roller holder.
Since the square nut can be under considerable pressure, you can tighten it.
You can already insert 16mm M6 bolts and related t-
Nut, and place it at the extrusion, the top is flush with the extrusion top.
The top and bottom of the bracket can be judged by the length of the M6 screw socket.
The top is shorter than the bottom.
Required parts: fasteners 3d printed parts connect the shock absorber to the Japanese 23 motor using 2 m4 screws (10mm)
And m4 nut with lock head connect the corner bracket to the shock absorber using 2 m4 (8mm)
M4 nut with lock washer.
Before tightening, rotate the entire csm 23 about 8 degrees, as seen in the online box image.
Connect 20 teeth pully to the Neptune axis as shown in the figure (
Tighten the nut to keep it away from the standard)
Please do not connect the standard that meets the standard to the standard bracket that meets the standard.
It needs to be connected to the track first (
Due to center bolts).
Insert 5 square nuts into the socket at the bottom (3)and the top (2).
I suggest putting some glue (
Or hot glue, keep them in place when corner brackets are connected.
Insert 3 M6 16mm bolt and connect t-nuts.
Insert the 23 bracket that meets the film standard during the aluminum extrusion process and move it so that the bottom is flush with the squeezed bottom.
After tightening the 3 M6 bolts that hold the bracket on the tower, insert the AC assembly and connect with a 5 m³ 25mm screw.
Required parts: fasteners for this building I chose to use the connecting holes per second on the track, not all.
If you would like to make the most of every hole in the track, use 13 screws and t-nuts more.
Adding a linear guide to the extrusion can be a tricky part.
The problem is the order of assembly.
You can try adding each screw and t-
Before putting the track into the extrusion, some t-appears in the nut-
The nuts rotate freely in the groove and never connect or rotate 90 degrees so they don\'t grab the squeeze at all.
I used a little trick to place t-
The NUT is in place before adding the track, but it does need to sacrifice the old tape measure.
See this video here: when placing t-
The NUT is in the appropriate position, and the linear guide rail is 45mm from the bottom of the roller bracket.
This leaves all the space to upgrade to the removable bed, as well as enough endstop chassis space.
Tighten the screw and rail tail first.
This allows you to precisely locate the center at both ends (
Don\'t tighten too much).
Now, from one end to the other, continue to tighten the other screws until the middle.
Do so on several passes as needed.
This long track is easy to bend, so make sure that the distance of the squeezed edge is equal across the track. End-
Stopping and configuring should actually prevent the carriage from rolling the track, however, just in case, insert a bare M6 20mm bolt with t-
Nuts at both ends of the track and tighten.
When the screw pushes the center of the extrusion, it will tighten itself in place.
* If you would like to upgrade to a removable bed at some point that you need later, get two pieces: the fastener 3d printing part the shipping adapter on this increment provides several features.
Assembly is quite direct.
Add the magnetic ball diagonally to the existing hole, insert the square nut into the square hole and tighten it.
Insert the square nut into the center of the bracket adapter and insert the 45mm screw slot through the bracket adapter body.
Don\'t screw too far.
It\'s enough to go through the nuts.
Insert hook screw in pre-drilled (printed really)
There are holes in the front center of the car adapter body.
Attach the bracket adapter with 4 M5 10mm screws to the rail block/bracket.
With two end brackets (Idler and Nema)
Now you can add the belt to the tower along with the carriage adapter.
Take the 4 m belt and \"weave\" it through the idler wheel and usb adapter, make sure it wraps around the pulley and idler wheel, and connect the end on the transport adapter.
When adding the belt to the adapter, make sure there is enough room for the tension screw to tighten.
Fold the end of the belt above the meeting of the teeth (and interlock)
And insert the adapter around the first socket.
Walk around first and don\'t worry about physical discomfort for the time being.
After inserting the slot, you can tighten it (
Don\'t give it too much slack, as the screw tightening can only correct so much.
You can use tension screws to remove slack, but I will keep full tension until the whole frame is together (
We don\'t want it to bow to the whole tower).
Required parts: Fasteners: printer parts: endstop is installed on each tower and the printer goes home after printing and before printing.
C3Dt/bd adopts a mechanical end block in the style of makerbot.
Let\'s say that when I design, the electronics will be placed (
Middle position of printer height)
You need a longer cable than the cable provided by the stock End station.
You can weld on the existing extra wires or you can re-Weld
Curled longer.
I curl up new wires in my building (
Because you will have to re-
Curl ends on Duet Wifi anyway).
The Makerbot-style terminal stops using the 4-pin JST connector, but only 3-pin is connected (
Vin, gnd and signal).
The length of the edge is about one end of the stepping line of 2 m (
Just tear off the fourth station cable)
Same as the original cable that came with the final stop.
Connect the new wire to the end stop and insert the End Stop cover, pass the M3 screw 16mm through the housing and add t-nut.
Connect the shell to the tower at the top of the straight track.
Make the end stop sensor outside the edge of the track (easily 8mm)
Due to the shape of the carriage and the potential grease nipples may hit the end of the guide rail before reaching the end point.
Rinse the second and third towers and Repeat steps 3 to 8.
Make-up is the same.
Required parts: fasteners 3d printed parts we need to prepare an external corner bracket to accommodate M6 screws before connecting anything.
Drill the hole on the corner bracket with a 1/4 bit on both sides, as shown in the corner bracket image (
Yellow Circle)
Both sides do so.
As shown in the figure, you can also drill out two center holes, although I find I can go through there without extra drilling (
It might add a bit of strength, not drill it).
At the bottom of the track: Repeat the process at the top of the tower.
After connecting all 4 418mm of the extrusion, you can add the outer corner stand.
6 M6 screws and 6 T-for each external corner bracket-nuts (
There are 40 on the corner and 2 on the center back panel).
Repeat this process by adding the second and third rails.
The third one will be more complicated because you are working on an open triangle at this time.
But the process is the same.
After adding all the towers, you will get the printer frame shown in the image (
Minus the moving bed mechanism, it is the upgrade to be released later).
Flying extruder is not uncommon on Delta printer.
A larger printer like this would almost have to have one, as installing the extruder on the frame would result in a very long Bowden tube.
For C3Dt/bd, I took it to a new level by suspending the flight extruder from the bracket adapter and the unique wire management system (i. e.
First time using Slinky in 3D printer).
I have also designed the extruder, which has a stand that can be exchanged for one with three \"thumb\" screws, or simply remove it for maintenance.
Required parts: fastener 3d printer PartsCut 3 PCs 90mm 8mm screw, wrapped with woven sleeve.
Add 20mm shrink tubes at both ends for all 3 sticks and heat them.
Cut off the extra sleeves.
Insert three rods into the center ring (
Not necessarily tight fit as once it stays in place in the frame).
Add M6 20mm screws to all three center brackets and attach T-Nuts.
Hold the whole Slinky (be patient)
And add 1/4 shrink tube at both ends and heating.
Use the \"channel\" on the surface of the ring to connect slinky to the center ring and place 4 closed zippers on the top.
Insert 3 cup hooks into the extruder ring and insert 3 20mm screws through the extruder ring.
Connect the bottom end of slinky to the extrusion using the \"channel\" and use the zipper to connect.
Assemble the BMG extruder and stepping motor as shown in the figure.
Cut 3 pieces of latex around 11 cm.
I wrapped them up with woven sleeves (
Flexible like everyone else).
When applying it, make sure there is enough bending in the weave.
Work one end of the latex on the cuphook on the center ring, and work the other end on the Cup hook on the compartment adapter.
Do this for all three hooks on the center ring.
Warning: this part of the process is one of two steps that is exposed to a 110 V power supply.
I designed a closed case so it was safe when it was done.
Please be careful that a voltage of 110 volts will hurt you, not to mention 220 Volts if you are elsewhere in the world.
Parts need fasteners 3d printed parts original C3Dt/bd, I have an aluminum plate of 1/4 \"330mm.
I recently discovered the suppliers I purchased from there and no longer cut 1/4 of the aluminum.
He still cuts 1/8 inch aluminum, which is actually the size of most printer beds.
Reach out and ask him for a disc 330mm in diameter.
If you use the PETG print bed fixture, please note that the glass transition temperature of the PETG is about 80 degrees Celsius, so heating the bed above may start to distort the fixture.
If you plan to exceed the temperature of 80 beds, it is better to print these with ABS.
However, there will be a layer of Cork between the bed and the plastic, so PETG may work well.
I use the BuildTak flexplate system for all my 3D printers.
I once created a magnetic bed myself, which is not worth the trouble at all.
BuildTak\'s largest disc flexible plate system has a diameter of 12 \", which is enough for this building.
They do cut the actual flexplate steel to the right size on request.
BuildTak can provide their proprietary building surfaces or PEI plates.
I have become a huge fan of PEI.
The first layer of glue is great and it pops up once the print is done.
The heating bed uses a 110 V keenfeld silicone heater.
There is a choice of 12 volts, but it takes a long time to heat the 330mm bed at 12 volts.
Keentro silicon pads are equipped with integrated wires and thermal resistance wires.
Actually, I made a note before upgrading to 110 V, which you can find here: the important part of this build is the schematic diagram in the image contained here.
Instead of lifting the 12 V power cord from the controller board, they went straight to the bed and instead went to the solid state relay (SSR)instead.
The 110 V wire will come directly from the PSU and the live wire will pass through the SSR.
This means that you need to connect enough number 22 wires to reach the PSU (
Around 80 cm of my design)
And enough wires to reach the SRR and the thermal resistor wires from the control board (
About 150 cm in this design).
To do this, you can use a 4-wire stepping wire.
You can connect the SSR with one m3 screw (14mm)and M3 T-
Nut on frame.
I recommend wrapping 110 V wires with separate woven sleeves of all 12 v wires (
And put some marking tape to identify it).
If you plan to upgrade to a removable bed when this feature is available, add a second \"spare\" stepping wire (4 strands)
From the control panel to the wiring sleeve.
Warning: this part of the process is one of two steps that is exposed to a 110 V power supply.
I designed a closed case so it was safe when it was done.
Please be careful that a voltage of 110 volts will hurt you, not to mention 220 Volts if you are elsewhere in the world.
Parts for C3Dt/bd require fasteners and I have used an average of 24 v PSU.
Connect the wire to the PSU using a fork connector and the quick wire to the power switch.
This is the right thing to do.
The correct wiring can be seen in the image above.
Before the end, it might be a good idea to check if the live wire is really live.
Insert and open, test with a v table (
You really need to have it if you are 110 V field wiring and know how to use it, one).
If you change Live to Neutral by mistake, things will run as expected, but when you turn off the printer (via switch)
Power still exists.
Before closing the power unit, run the 24 v output line through the holes provided on the side.
Technically you only need one pair to power the duo Wifi, but if you want to be ready for future extensions (
Such as LED or other foreseeable electronic equipment)
I recommend putting the line for all three output pairs on the power unit.
Since the heating bed operates at a voltage of 110 V, it is also extended by 110 V when the output wire is long enough to reach the heating bed (
About 80 cm about this design).
Parts require fasteners 3d printed part template files this situation is designed to rotate from the rear tower of the printer.
All incoming and outgoing lines come from the left opening of the box.
Make sure that the opening at the top and bottom is cleared as airflow is required to cool the MCU and step drive.
I highly recommend that you cut acrylic into the right size with a cutter designed for this task.
It will be regrettable to try this with a Stanley knife (
Very hard to learn).
You can drill holes according to drawings (pdf files)
Alternatively, you can simply place a 3D printed corner block on an acrylic resin and use it as a guide for drilling.
I have designed to secure the top plate with thumb screws so you can remove and maintain the board and/or wiring easily.
To prevent the square nut from falling off, I used a little hot glue on the cavity after inserting the square nut to catch the thumb screw.
On C3Dt/bd, the enclosure is installed about 105 cm from the ground (
To the bottom of the case).
You can hang it somewhere else, but if you do make sure all the wires get to it.
Need to print part Delta Smart pilot combined with Duet Wifi makes it very easy to use delta.
Built-in adapter-
The piezoelectric material of the bed can be detected.
This function is combined with bed detection, making it easy to calibrate delta (
Generally speaking, a bigger obstacle to the establishment of the Delta).
The Delta Smart actuator is equipped with an actual actuator and three brackets.
No brackets are required, as this design uses a bracket adapter for a custom design that already exists on the tower.
I will not go into the detailed settings in this Instructure because the product documentation is doing a good job.
You can find everything here: warning, don\'t skip the part of the glue.
With the E3D radiator, the Stock Delta Smart cooler is suitable for the e3d cooling fan, but the sound is loud.
I designed a new fan cover to handle part cooling and radiator cooling with 2 40mm fans.
There are 14 wires leading to the wiring of the Delta Smart Extruder, but don\'t forget to fly the extruder (
About 200mm above).
4 step lines are required to operate the extruder.
So when casing the wire, make sure you also consider the stepping motor wire (
18 shares in total).
The printed dual fan adapter is a mix and match designed by Rod Smith and fits perfectly, but does.
It may take a little bend to wear it.
When connecting the magnetic arm to the actuator, I was most fortunate to have put the opposite rods together at the magnetic ball adjacent to the actuator.
You may have to play this game, but these magnetic arms will affect the operation of the fans below.
When I connect them \"wrong\", once the probe bed fails due to continued false positives on the probe. re-
Arrange the magnetic arm to fix this.
At this point, you can also add bowden tubes between the extruder and the Delta smart actuator.
I use parts that need fasteners. I have to admit that the touch screen on this printer is good but a bit redundant.
Except at the show, I control almost everything on this printer through the web interface.
For C3Dt/bd, I chose a simple 4-pin connection instead of a more complex wiring when using the card reader on the LCD.
The chassis I designed here does not have access to the micro SD card.
It\'s too easy to upload files directly from your computer to handle this problem.
In my design, I used more than 2 m of wires so I could have the LCD in my hand while working at the bottom of the printer.
The Duet Wifi comes with all the connectors you need to curl all the wires.
Despite all the previous steps, I believe I have left enough length on all the lines to get to the controller board.
The wires can all easily be hidden in aluminum extrusion and meet in the middle of the contoller chassis.
I\'m not going to go into the wiring instructions in detail as the Duet documentation details all of this on their website: pointers: for this printer we connect 4 stepping motors (X, Y, Z and E0)
Corresponding to drive 0 to 3, we use 3 end stops corresponding to X Stop, Y Stop and Z stop (
Make sure you have GND and 3.
Correct 3 v connector).
Delta smart actuator probe has a dedicated Z-PROBE (
Expired connection next to panel)
Connection on the Duet Wifi board.
The two fans connected to the controller holder are connected in parallel with the PWM Fan 2 connector.
The part cooling fan is connected to the PWM fan 0 radiator cooling fan is connected to the PWM fan 1 LCD is connected to the panel as there is a 4-pin connector on the board (
Next to the Z probe connector).
Two thermal resistors (bed and hot-end)
Related connectors connected to the board.
My favorite duet Wifi (
Its firmware is the ability to configure everything with g-codes.
There is no need to re-inflate your board every time there is any change.
The introduction to Duet Wifi is described in detail in the Duet online documentation and there are some necessary steps to connect to home wifi.
The connection document will direct you to the cabling (
And related settings)
This setting can skip steps 11, 15, 16, 17, 20, after which you can start the configuration (
The first general Descartes)
Here you can find the difference in the incremental printer: Step 12 uses the following: for Step 16, use the following: go from there to the configuration specifically for the incremental printer, you need to put the parameters of the incremental printer into the move section.
This is what C3Dt/c looks like.
Note that your height may be slightly different.
When your actuator comes home, measure the distance between the end of the nozzle and your bed.
This is the usage of the H parameter.
I have configured my fan for different purposes.
The radiator fan will only open when the hotend reaches 45 CelciusThe Controller board fan. The radiator fan will only start up when the MCU reaches 40 degrees Celsius or the stepping driver is overheated. Slicer software
I have attached my configuration. H and homedelta.
But note that some values may be different in your implementation.
The configuration of the automatic calibration settings can be found here: there is a wizard that will generate the bed. g file for you.
Note: The M558 probe command in the configuration.
H use a probe of H5 to 5mm on the bed.
Change it to something bigger for the first time (like H20)
Put your finger off-
Just in case it drill to the button on the bed.
Also test the Delta smart actuator before the first real probe to make sure its sensor is working properly.
See the video below: After completing the first probe (G32)
Information is stored in configuration-override. g files.
If you spend a lot of money and effort making this printer, I have to assume that you know how to print it in 3D (
This is not to start the printer).
I would suggest starting with a 3d benchy or other calibration model.
Here is an article about this bedI, and I am often asked why I bought such a high printer with such a small bed.
First of all, I want to point out that the 330mm diameter is larger than most commercial printers,
Nothing in this design can stop you from buying a bigger bed.
I\'m currently using 418mm vertical extrusion, but if you want to use a larger size, just lengthen those and use a larger bed.
However, it is rarely considered before you do it.
With a bigger bed (
Diameter 600mm)
Means: for example, using a bed with a diameter of 500mm means about 532mm of the arm (
Based on 20 degrees angle)
And that means not 1240mm z-
Height, you will leave 1068mm zheight.
The bed with a diameter of 600mm means about 638mm of the arm (
Based on 20 degrees angle)
And that means not 1240mm z-
Height, you will leave 960mm zheight.
The bed with a diameter of 1000mm means about 1064mm of the arm (
Based on 20 degrees angle)
And that means not 1240mm z-
Height, you\'re left at 536mm. z-height.
In the latter case, half of the total size of the printer will be used for arm movement, not for print height.
Removable beds some of you may be disappointed as this note does not include the removable beds seen on youtube and may even include some live performances (
Like maker faires or MRRF).
I will eventually add it to this structure or as a separate structure.
I won\'t do that until I have a budget for next year.
You can jump to gofundme to speed up.
Once I \'ve reached my goal, I\'ll be able to move on to the next project and get the old open source project.
It\'s interesting to build this printer.
Compared to all my previous models, I was very surprised by the quality of the print (
I3 elever, core XY) i3.
View and subscribe to my youtube channel, which will provide a large number of videos using C3Dt/bd.
This is the biggest print I \'ve ever made: too big?
Fully understood.
This is very big. most people don\'t need such a large printer.
If you still want to make a printer, check out my smaller but fully functional cantilever printer C3Dt/c. You can find its instructions here: simply put, some images of the printer after and during the build.
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