anodized aluminium nozzle with build in heater, ultra fast and slim
by：SAN
2019-11-24
Update 16/06/2015: up to 100/second now :)
Update 13/07/2015: use 0 for the first print test up to 80 mm/s. 3mm nozzle.
Step 5 to view the video.
Update 12/06/2015: new parts arrived, so I made a new heater with the screws in the nozzle and added a hot break. (
Step 2 has pictures)
Update 09/07/2015: print ABS. . .
I can\'t wait for the new parts to arrive, so I made a new teflon stand for the current nozzle and started the ABS test print, which can be found after the video step is uploaded.
Update 07/06/2015: After breaking these two small and expensive 03 and 0.
I decided to give up drilling 4mm drill bits.
Instead, I will order some srew at the tip of the nozzle and re-
Design the heater instead of having a small hole.
Since all you need to do is heat the nozzle and screw off the tip, it will also be easier to replace/replace the size.
The principle of the anode oxidation Amulet of the direct core heating system will remain the same.
The next update after the nozzle tip arrives.
Update 06/06/2015 2.
It does work!
The video is ready and there will be more videos soon, so check the steps with video and fault analysis.
Update 06/06/2015: uploaded the image that failed the first attempt, failed insulation, but the heater design is solid.
Meet the next generation printing nozzle-
Anode alumina!
From the main image, you might think: OK, it looks like a nozzle, but where is the heater?
All normal print heads have thermal resistors or heater cartridges-
Extra rooms are required for both.
By using alumina, I can wrap the heating wire directly around the nozzle because the oxide layer is a perfect isolator.
It\'s still a prototype, but so far it\'s the eighth generation.
If you would like more information, please check the next steps. 1.
Lathe can be used. 2.
DC power supply, the best laboratory power supply. 3.
Sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid (Battery Acid). 4. Nichrome wire -
I used 30 ad hoc working groups for my nozzle. 5.
Since the heating wire cannot be welded, the small gap connecting it. 6.
Gypsum radiator
This is not the kind for your CPU, but for GPU and Northbridge I used a silcone based radiator paste with a rated temperature of 300 degrees Celsius. 7.
Temperature sensor of your choice-
In my case, the standard type of my old Mendel, please choose according to your hardware. 8.
According to the ability of the lathe, you also need a drilling machine. 9.
M6 stainless steel screws and suitable taps
If the printer is not made of rice, you can measure the size of the Empire exactly.
If you are uncomfortable with drilling into stainless steel on your lathe, please check if your favorite printer supply store has drilled the \"heat barrier\" or screws. 10.
A little Telfon or a Peep lever. 11. Kapton tape.
Let\'s start with the material: I used the 8mm round bar at Home Depot
Not the best option, but more in the anodized part.
I cleaned it out and made it round instead of bumping all the way.
The next step is to drill the nozzle hole for the filament.
For the first time you try to stick to a larger size like 0. 7mm, I use 0.
This model has 4mm holes.
To keep the drill bit alive, I stuck it on an old pen and used it by hand, these little drills are both expensive and fragile. . .
For better print quality, the nozzle is turned off at a slight angle so that only a small amount of material is left around the drill.
Create thread for heating wire.
I use a counter-clockwise line, but the direction is not important.
What\'s important is that you need 12-
14 turns so the wire is in the right range.
Only if your hardware is able to use a heating element less than 8 ohms without smoke, 10 or less turns.
16 turns if the length is less important and you want to save some energy. -
The 16-turn heating wire can still work properly.
So you see plenty of room to play, so it\'s hard to mess it up.
Keep in mind that 30 GW of wires are used-
If you use a different diameter, you must double check the resistance before the number of turns to be correct.
I left enough material to install the thermal resistor at the nozzle output. Inside magic. . .
I drilled a 3mm filament.
The 5mm hole is down all the way, so leave as little material as possible between this heating chamber and the external nozzle hole.
The longer the nozzle hole, the greater the pressure required to push the filament through.
For 1, 75mm filamet drill 2mm holes.
Below is a 5mm hole about 8mm centimeters deep.
Now hit this hole with M6 thread.
If you have a flat faucet at the bottom, that would be perfect as there is no 5mm part in front of the heating chamber.
If we don\'t keep reading, we will stay awake.
Last but not least, the hole in the thermal resistor is drilled-
Be careful not to drill too deep.
If you drill too deep with 3.
5mm when drilling, you will notice that there is a hole in the hole, I am sorry if so, but when using 3, you have to start over and leave more material. 5mm drill.
From the point of view of the drill bit, this should be a tight fit for the 2mm thermal resistor hole, but it will fit.
It is drilled deep enough so that the glass body is flush with the outer diameter.
This is all the processing on the actual nozzle.
For the connection to the installation part, I use the 6mm stainless steel bolt.
The head of the stainless steel bolt is cut, 3.
Drill through 5mm holes.
If you can\'t click 3 all the way, it\'s better to remove the line at one end.
5mm holes inside the nozzle.
So that you can bridge the gap left by the tap (
Unless you have a flat knife).
In order to assist with good sealing and keep the melted filament in the melting chamber, I also made a Teflon gasket for use between the nozzle Bolt and the small hole.
Sorry, there is no photo here, there is only a washing machine with 3 2mm thick.
2mm holes of fine silk.
If you want a universal nozzle of two fiber sizes, you can still use 3 bolts.
5mm hole, but make a 2mm hole on the top and a Teflon gasket in a slight funnel shape to help the filament enter.
You can also get a bolt with a slightly larger hole that allows the use of a different size Teflon sleeve to satisfy 1.
Flowers 75 and 3mm.
The options here are yours; )
Update 12/dash 6/2015: If you can\'t drill these small holes, please use the design I updated as shown in the following figure.
In the picture above, you can see the new hotend with GPU cooler installed from the old graphics card-
There is no thick aluminum bar on hand to make the right aluminum bar; )
Now the parts are separated: the Teflon stand is a bit long as my x carrier is a strange design and I need some gaps to heat it as well.
Stainless steel screws can now be drilled to 4mm, so the Teflon tube can be used to reduce friction.
The heater is basically the same design as the old one, but it has a threaded hole for the screws in the nozzle.
To get a better temperature reading, the holes of the thermal sensor are drilled into the thread of the nozzle.
I will upload some photos if needed, but I think it is beautiful.
I will make an electronic connection tomorrow and try to print the test.
We have finished the hard work. let\'s keep working hard. . .
There are a few instructions on the anode oxidation, so I will keep it short here.
First wash the nozzle with acetone or alcohol to remove any remaining oil and fingerprints.
Now, we use about 2 teaspoons of sodium hydroxide in the glass to remove any oxide that has been formed and the remaining fingerprints.
From now on, wear gloves or use tools to handle the nozzle instead of your bare fingers.
Anode Oxidation occurs in a small container containing diluted batterry acid.
If you dilute the acid, always add the acid to the water instead of the opposite!
For this small piece, I set the current to 60 mA @ 16 v in the first 10 minutes, and then set the current to 20 mA in 90 minutes.
Give it some color after flushing it under water.
I want a copper tone, but it turns out that it\'s useless for me to combine cheap aluminum with edible pigments.
In the past, I used high quality aluminum with good hardness, and when coloring with green food, its color is very good.
Anyway, you may see a slight change in the oxide layer in the picture, and the color falls off completely during the sealing process.
But quick check with multimeter to confirm there is no conductivity, just to double check whether the Anode Oxidation is going as planned :)
Not that the color is really important because you don\'t see much color in the final product, so you can skip the color if you don\'t care.
The colors of most foods cannot survive at high temperatures, so if you really want a color that looks beautiful, you have to use the right anointing color.
I cooked in water for 40 minutes to seal the oxide layer.
Mainly because of the small size, light weight.
A good side effect is that this nozzle rises from room temperature to 200 degrees in a few seconds, while normal hotends can take a few minutes.
Most people learn about anodized aluminum from color tools, beverage bottles or outdoor equipment.
A little-known fact is that the oxide layer is also a very good insulator, which is part of the acceptable color.
I combine weight loss with a faster response time.
Now, it\'s an interesting part to connect the wire properly to the thread of the nozzle.
It would be better for me to twist it directly into the groove with a lot of tension.
If you still have too much bending and turn it on, you first wrap it in a slightly smaller diameter and then push the winding to the nozzle.
Once everything is ready, I fix the end with a rubber band.
To keep it in place and provide a better distribution of heat, we now fill all the grooves in the thread with radiator plaster until even if there is a high position.
Set aside enough time for the silicone to fully solidify, it\'s a bad idea to rush here!
After silicone is cured, connect the wire to the harness using a small curl connector.
Welding does not work!
I replaced it with some copper tubes in an old fridge that were used for thermostat connections, right after drilling.
The small curl connector for the board connector works best, but I\'m running out :(
With them, all you have to do is cut off everything that is not curled up and keep the rest connected.
The wire closest to the outlet of the nozzle will bend 90 °, near the end of the top wire or directly at the bottom.
I curl at the bottom here. . .
To ensure that if the coil of the wire is loose, there will be no short circuit, somehow, several layers of Kapton tape are wrapped around the nozzle, and then the wire is fixed with several layers of Kapton tape.
If you wish, you can use the telfon tape in the pipe section instead of here, and only use Kapton tape when adding a thermal resistor wire.
It\'s time to do the final resistance check to make sure we have neither short nor broken lines.
The thermal resistor is glued together with the radiator plaster and fixed with a little Kapton tape.
After the plaster is fully cured, the entire nozzle is tightly wrapped with several layers of Katon tape
This gives us some extra insulation.
I only have one old Prusa so the final nozzle will be based on this design.
If the nozzle holder is different, simply match the system at the end of the stainless steel bolt.
Instructable is about the actual installation of the printer instead of the installation.
You can use Teflon peeps or aluminum to fit onto the x-axis carrier/extruder.
I have Teflon on hand, so there are lines and 3 for 6mm.
Run through 5mm holes with standard J-head mount.
For the size of comaparison, I added the standard J-
In this photo.
The big washer is a test for a simple radiator as I would like to try printing some nylon on this head.
The thermal resistor is also glued to the inside, all of which can be welded to the connecting line.
I\'m still waiting for the new harness to arrive, but once they arrive the nozzle will get a testrun and I\'ll upload a video as well.
In the early model, I also replaced Kapton insulation with aluminum tubes.
It looks better, but additional processing steps are required and it takes a couple of days for the radiator plaster to solidify in the shell, so I am giving up this design now.
The extra aluminum sleeve is not significantly improved in performance, and if you only have one gadget shed, it doesn\'t justify the extra work.
I hope you enjoy the idea one day and try it out.
Please post some pictures if you do.
The first testrun is not as good as expected.
After about 10 cm of printing, the extruder starts to make grinding noise due to pressure.
It turns out that the nozzle and heater system works well, just no short stainless steel bolts for the radiator.
The Teflon gasket I placed between the bolt and the nozzle also expanded and the filament made it extend a lot on the Bolt as you can see it even formed inside the Teflon bracket
To prevent the blockage, I have to get some peep or thicker bolts with a Teflon liner.
If I find the part, I will fix the bolt and liner issue and hope to print it out successfully within a few days.
The heater itself performs well until the nozzle is squeezed well.
Sadly, I don\'t have a thick inventory of alu to make a fin-like radiator of the right size, but maybe I can find a small CPU cooler instead.
Here\'s a short video showing that using teflon connection with hand extrusion works fine: Here\'s a video showing the testrun printer squeezing at a speed of 60 mm/s.
Please note that I used it wrong, it is 0.
7mm hole is not 0.
4mm as described in the previous steps.
Extrusion test of 60 mm/s in the printer: PID automatic tuning as a display of heating speed.
Let me know if you find a nozzle with a heating power of less than 20 w; )
Last but not least, last and short print tests.
As expected, the thin Teflon connection is too flexible to disrupt the printing by making the nozzle swing.
But it still proves that the concept works fine and I have to make a solid stand with Teflon before I get some higher temperature peeps.
I might actually do another nozzel, but have a longer \"neck\" and a 8mm outer thread that is screwed straight to the stand.
16mm Telfon rod will still have some bends but should be good enough for some decent print.
I have ordered some polished stainless steel thermal barrier as I am not able to polish my thermal barrier properly and I will update accordingly if it works properly.
09/07/2015: the work of printing ABS is really good, although the nozzle seat (teflon)
It becomes soft after a period of time, causing the nozzle to swing.
But with the new parts, this will hopefully be fixed forever.
13/06/2105: 0 for the extrusion test of my hotend.
3mm nozzle: During the calibration of the bed, after quite a bit of operator melting, I finally made the first print with 0.
3mm nozzle: this is not mentioned on the seller\'s website, but the green filament has a strong UV reactivity and is messed up by the light of the Cam.
May be good for some fishing bait; )
Print at 40 mm/s, 0.
1mm floor height.
The corners never look good, but it\'s a real pain to calibrate everything for such a small nozzle. . .
In the same case, but with the printing speed increasing by 20%, the printing speed is a bit later: It lasts until tonight, and the printing speed of 80 mm/s slows down only by acceleration control.
I don\'t know what other people think, but I\'m impressed with this new design.
Once peeps arrive, the brackets will be shorter to get more building height.
Update 16/06/2015: 100 mm/s print. . .
The result is not 100% perfect and still needs some adjustments to the filament settings as the padding is still a bit too much, as is the case with external imitations.
But I think there should be no problem with 120/second under the appropriate settings.
The speed settings used by the token in Slic3r: perimeter = 100mm/sSmall circumference = 40mm/sExternal circumference = 50mm/sInfill = 120mm/sSolid encryption = 40mm/stop solid filling = 20mm/sBridges = 30mm/sGap complement = 20mm/sMind the hardware is Gen1 Mendel Prusa, nothing fancy. . .
Finally, 0.
The 3mm nozzle is just a pain and there is no real error anymore.
What can be used on 0 with many different filament and extrusion settings.
The 7mm nozzle needs perfect tuning.
I will continue tuning to reach the 120/second target for perimeter and padding.
This nozzle has been printed faster than any of my J-
The head has been done :)
Since it is better to observe speed on large objects, print Wades extruder at 100mm/sec: increase it to 120/sec or even higher, but now my hardware is running out, LOLHad froze several printers at a speed of about 200, so either improved the hardware or stabilized at a speed of about 150/sec.
In any case, part of the cost below $20 is not a bad result.
06/06/2015: as I have seen before, this nozzle is larger and works fine, and I am starting to wonder where the problem may be.
After the extrusion failed, I decided to spend another hour in the workshop making a new stainless steel bolt with 3.
1mm holes this time.
Instead of doing a full test inside the printer, I did a test with my hands and was surprised to find out how easy I could push the filament through and produce a beautiful molten plastic
However, when I stopped for a few seconds to get a better grip, I couldn\'t push any filaments through at all.
Quick inspection found that, especially when the whole system is fully warmed up, the filament inside the stainless steel \"insulated\" expands.
On my first attempt to make the nozzle using anodized aluminum, I used the external thread on the nozzle and installed it directly into the Telfon part for installation.
There is almost no friction, and there is no expansion.
But my goal here is to make a nozzle that is slender, easy to make and can work within the range of 300 °c.
So far, the only thing that really prevents this is the connection between the actual nozzle and the bracket.
At AU, it is difficult for me to find a reasonably priced peeps, $30 cm $80 is \"cheap\", which excludes the possibility of using Peeps to make a high temperature version at this stage.
However, ABS should also work when the external thread is 8mm and installed directly on the Teflon holder, but Teflon has already started softening at these temperatures.
Graphite is far from optimal, but the friction is small and is the only attempt I have left until I find some cheap peeps or make a new nozzle with an external thread.
So go to the workshop and make a graphit connector, hopefully it will be strong enough to survive at least a decent print. 06/062015 2.
: It was found on the lathe that graphite was a night horse. it was too soft and brittle.
But I was eager to prove that it did work, and this time I made a new \"insulation\" from Teflon\"
Just for the purpose of testing!
As the video shows, it does work fine, but it also shows that someone is not careful when catching the little drill
The hole is actually 0. 7mm and not 0. 4mm :(
Anyway, it works, and in a few days I will make a more permanent solution by making a Teflon stand that holds the nozzle directly.
It won\'t be good for the real temperature, but the main thing is that the nozzle works, and the next step will be to make the stainless steel insulation with the Teflon liner.
I will now try to install the nozzle in the printer and do a test print.
It won\'t be perfect to support the result because the thin Teflon stick is very soft, but let\'s see how we go :)
Update 13/07/2015: use 0 for the first print test up to 80 mm/s. 3mm nozzle.
Step 5 to view the video.
Update 12/06/2015: new parts arrived, so I made a new heater with the screws in the nozzle and added a hot break. (
Step 2 has pictures)
Update 09/07/2015: print ABS. . .
I can\'t wait for the new parts to arrive, so I made a new teflon stand for the current nozzle and started the ABS test print, which can be found after the video step is uploaded.
Update 07/06/2015: After breaking these two small and expensive 03 and 0.
I decided to give up drilling 4mm drill bits.
Instead, I will order some srew at the tip of the nozzle and re-
Design the heater instead of having a small hole.
Since all you need to do is heat the nozzle and screw off the tip, it will also be easier to replace/replace the size.
The principle of the anode oxidation Amulet of the direct core heating system will remain the same.
The next update after the nozzle tip arrives.
Update 06/06/2015 2.
It does work!
The video is ready and there will be more videos soon, so check the steps with video and fault analysis.
Update 06/06/2015: uploaded the image that failed the first attempt, failed insulation, but the heater design is solid.
Meet the next generation printing nozzle-
Anode alumina!
From the main image, you might think: OK, it looks like a nozzle, but where is the heater?
All normal print heads have thermal resistors or heater cartridges-
Extra rooms are required for both.
By using alumina, I can wrap the heating wire directly around the nozzle because the oxide layer is a perfect isolator.
It\'s still a prototype, but so far it\'s the eighth generation.
If you would like more information, please check the next steps. 1.
Lathe can be used. 2.
DC power supply, the best laboratory power supply. 3.
Sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid (Battery Acid). 4. Nichrome wire -
I used 30 ad hoc working groups for my nozzle. 5.
Since the heating wire cannot be welded, the small gap connecting it. 6.
Gypsum radiator
This is not the kind for your CPU, but for GPU and Northbridge I used a silcone based radiator paste with a rated temperature of 300 degrees Celsius. 7.
Temperature sensor of your choice-
In my case, the standard type of my old Mendel, please choose according to your hardware. 8.
According to the ability of the lathe, you also need a drilling machine. 9.
M6 stainless steel screws and suitable taps
If the printer is not made of rice, you can measure the size of the Empire exactly.
If you are uncomfortable with drilling into stainless steel on your lathe, please check if your favorite printer supply store has drilled the \"heat barrier\" or screws. 10.
A little Telfon or a Peep lever. 11. Kapton tape.
Let\'s start with the material: I used the 8mm round bar at Home Depot
Not the best option, but more in the anodized part.
I cleaned it out and made it round instead of bumping all the way.
The next step is to drill the nozzle hole for the filament.
For the first time you try to stick to a larger size like 0. 7mm, I use 0.
This model has 4mm holes.
To keep the drill bit alive, I stuck it on an old pen and used it by hand, these little drills are both expensive and fragile. . .
For better print quality, the nozzle is turned off at a slight angle so that only a small amount of material is left around the drill.
Create thread for heating wire.
I use a counter-clockwise line, but the direction is not important.
What\'s important is that you need 12-
14 turns so the wire is in the right range.
Only if your hardware is able to use a heating element less than 8 ohms without smoke, 10 or less turns.
16 turns if the length is less important and you want to save some energy. -
The 16-turn heating wire can still work properly.
So you see plenty of room to play, so it\'s hard to mess it up.
Keep in mind that 30 GW of wires are used-
If you use a different diameter, you must double check the resistance before the number of turns to be correct.
I left enough material to install the thermal resistor at the nozzle output. Inside magic. . .
I drilled a 3mm filament.
The 5mm hole is down all the way, so leave as little material as possible between this heating chamber and the external nozzle hole.
The longer the nozzle hole, the greater the pressure required to push the filament through.
For 1, 75mm filamet drill 2mm holes.
Below is a 5mm hole about 8mm centimeters deep.
Now hit this hole with M6 thread.
If you have a flat faucet at the bottom, that would be perfect as there is no 5mm part in front of the heating chamber.
If we don\'t keep reading, we will stay awake.
Last but not least, the hole in the thermal resistor is drilled-
Be careful not to drill too deep.
If you drill too deep with 3.
5mm when drilling, you will notice that there is a hole in the hole, I am sorry if so, but when using 3, you have to start over and leave more material. 5mm drill.
From the point of view of the drill bit, this should be a tight fit for the 2mm thermal resistor hole, but it will fit.
It is drilled deep enough so that the glass body is flush with the outer diameter.
This is all the processing on the actual nozzle.
For the connection to the installation part, I use the 6mm stainless steel bolt.
The head of the stainless steel bolt is cut, 3.
Drill through 5mm holes.
If you can\'t click 3 all the way, it\'s better to remove the line at one end.
5mm holes inside the nozzle.
So that you can bridge the gap left by the tap (
Unless you have a flat knife).
In order to assist with good sealing and keep the melted filament in the melting chamber, I also made a Teflon gasket for use between the nozzle Bolt and the small hole.
Sorry, there is no photo here, there is only a washing machine with 3 2mm thick.
2mm holes of fine silk.
If you want a universal nozzle of two fiber sizes, you can still use 3 bolts.
5mm hole, but make a 2mm hole on the top and a Teflon gasket in a slight funnel shape to help the filament enter.
You can also get a bolt with a slightly larger hole that allows the use of a different size Teflon sleeve to satisfy 1.
Flowers 75 and 3mm.
The options here are yours; )
Update 12/dash 6/2015: If you can\'t drill these small holes, please use the design I updated as shown in the following figure.
In the picture above, you can see the new hotend with GPU cooler installed from the old graphics card-
There is no thick aluminum bar on hand to make the right aluminum bar; )
Now the parts are separated: the Teflon stand is a bit long as my x carrier is a strange design and I need some gaps to heat it as well.
Stainless steel screws can now be drilled to 4mm, so the Teflon tube can be used to reduce friction.
The heater is basically the same design as the old one, but it has a threaded hole for the screws in the nozzle.
To get a better temperature reading, the holes of the thermal sensor are drilled into the thread of the nozzle.
I will upload some photos if needed, but I think it is beautiful.
I will make an electronic connection tomorrow and try to print the test.
We have finished the hard work. let\'s keep working hard. . .
There are a few instructions on the anode oxidation, so I will keep it short here.
First wash the nozzle with acetone or alcohol to remove any remaining oil and fingerprints.
Now, we use about 2 teaspoons of sodium hydroxide in the glass to remove any oxide that has been formed and the remaining fingerprints.
From now on, wear gloves or use tools to handle the nozzle instead of your bare fingers.
Anode Oxidation occurs in a small container containing diluted batterry acid.
If you dilute the acid, always add the acid to the water instead of the opposite!
For this small piece, I set the current to 60 mA @ 16 v in the first 10 minutes, and then set the current to 20 mA in 90 minutes.
Give it some color after flushing it under water.
I want a copper tone, but it turns out that it\'s useless for me to combine cheap aluminum with edible pigments.
In the past, I used high quality aluminum with good hardness, and when coloring with green food, its color is very good.
Anyway, you may see a slight change in the oxide layer in the picture, and the color falls off completely during the sealing process.
But quick check with multimeter to confirm there is no conductivity, just to double check whether the Anode Oxidation is going as planned :)
Not that the color is really important because you don\'t see much color in the final product, so you can skip the color if you don\'t care.
The colors of most foods cannot survive at high temperatures, so if you really want a color that looks beautiful, you have to use the right anointing color.
I cooked in water for 40 minutes to seal the oxide layer.
Mainly because of the small size, light weight.
A good side effect is that this nozzle rises from room temperature to 200 degrees in a few seconds, while normal hotends can take a few minutes.
Most people learn about anodized aluminum from color tools, beverage bottles or outdoor equipment.
A little-known fact is that the oxide layer is also a very good insulator, which is part of the acceptable color.
I combine weight loss with a faster response time.
Now, it\'s an interesting part to connect the wire properly to the thread of the nozzle.
It would be better for me to twist it directly into the groove with a lot of tension.
If you still have too much bending and turn it on, you first wrap it in a slightly smaller diameter and then push the winding to the nozzle.
Once everything is ready, I fix the end with a rubber band.
To keep it in place and provide a better distribution of heat, we now fill all the grooves in the thread with radiator plaster until even if there is a high position.
Set aside enough time for the silicone to fully solidify, it\'s a bad idea to rush here!
After silicone is cured, connect the wire to the harness using a small curl connector.
Welding does not work!
I replaced it with some copper tubes in an old fridge that were used for thermostat connections, right after drilling.
The small curl connector for the board connector works best, but I\'m running out :(
With them, all you have to do is cut off everything that is not curled up and keep the rest connected.
The wire closest to the outlet of the nozzle will bend 90 °, near the end of the top wire or directly at the bottom.
I curl at the bottom here. . .
To ensure that if the coil of the wire is loose, there will be no short circuit, somehow, several layers of Kapton tape are wrapped around the nozzle, and then the wire is fixed with several layers of Kapton tape.
If you wish, you can use the telfon tape in the pipe section instead of here, and only use Kapton tape when adding a thermal resistor wire.
It\'s time to do the final resistance check to make sure we have neither short nor broken lines.
The thermal resistor is glued together with the radiator plaster and fixed with a little Kapton tape.
After the plaster is fully cured, the entire nozzle is tightly wrapped with several layers of Katon tape
This gives us some extra insulation.
I only have one old Prusa so the final nozzle will be based on this design.
If the nozzle holder is different, simply match the system at the end of the stainless steel bolt.
Instructable is about the actual installation of the printer instead of the installation.
You can use Teflon peeps or aluminum to fit onto the x-axis carrier/extruder.
I have Teflon on hand, so there are lines and 3 for 6mm.
Run through 5mm holes with standard J-head mount.
For the size of comaparison, I added the standard J-
In this photo.
The big washer is a test for a simple radiator as I would like to try printing some nylon on this head.
The thermal resistor is also glued to the inside, all of which can be welded to the connecting line.
I\'m still waiting for the new harness to arrive, but once they arrive the nozzle will get a testrun and I\'ll upload a video as well.
In the early model, I also replaced Kapton insulation with aluminum tubes.
It looks better, but additional processing steps are required and it takes a couple of days for the radiator plaster to solidify in the shell, so I am giving up this design now.
The extra aluminum sleeve is not significantly improved in performance, and if you only have one gadget shed, it doesn\'t justify the extra work.
I hope you enjoy the idea one day and try it out.
Please post some pictures if you do.
The first testrun is not as good as expected.
After about 10 cm of printing, the extruder starts to make grinding noise due to pressure.
It turns out that the nozzle and heater system works well, just no short stainless steel bolts for the radiator.
The Teflon gasket I placed between the bolt and the nozzle also expanded and the filament made it extend a lot on the Bolt as you can see it even formed inside the Teflon bracket
To prevent the blockage, I have to get some peep or thicker bolts with a Teflon liner.
If I find the part, I will fix the bolt and liner issue and hope to print it out successfully within a few days.
The heater itself performs well until the nozzle is squeezed well.
Sadly, I don\'t have a thick inventory of alu to make a fin-like radiator of the right size, but maybe I can find a small CPU cooler instead.
Here\'s a short video showing that using teflon connection with hand extrusion works fine: Here\'s a video showing the testrun printer squeezing at a speed of 60 mm/s.
Please note that I used it wrong, it is 0.
7mm hole is not 0.
4mm as described in the previous steps.
Extrusion test of 60 mm/s in the printer: PID automatic tuning as a display of heating speed.
Let me know if you find a nozzle with a heating power of less than 20 w; )
Last but not least, last and short print tests.
As expected, the thin Teflon connection is too flexible to disrupt the printing by making the nozzle swing.
But it still proves that the concept works fine and I have to make a solid stand with Teflon before I get some higher temperature peeps.
I might actually do another nozzel, but have a longer \"neck\" and a 8mm outer thread that is screwed straight to the stand.
16mm Telfon rod will still have some bends but should be good enough for some decent print.
I have ordered some polished stainless steel thermal barrier as I am not able to polish my thermal barrier properly and I will update accordingly if it works properly.
09/07/2015: the work of printing ABS is really good, although the nozzle seat (teflon)
It becomes soft after a period of time, causing the nozzle to swing.
But with the new parts, this will hopefully be fixed forever.
13/06/2105: 0 for the extrusion test of my hotend.
3mm nozzle: During the calibration of the bed, after quite a bit of operator melting, I finally made the first print with 0.
3mm nozzle: this is not mentioned on the seller\'s website, but the green filament has a strong UV reactivity and is messed up by the light of the Cam.
May be good for some fishing bait; )
Print at 40 mm/s, 0.
1mm floor height.
The corners never look good, but it\'s a real pain to calibrate everything for such a small nozzle. . .
In the same case, but with the printing speed increasing by 20%, the printing speed is a bit later: It lasts until tonight, and the printing speed of 80 mm/s slows down only by acceleration control.
I don\'t know what other people think, but I\'m impressed with this new design.
Once peeps arrive, the brackets will be shorter to get more building height.
Update 16/06/2015: 100 mm/s print. . .
The result is not 100% perfect and still needs some adjustments to the filament settings as the padding is still a bit too much, as is the case with external imitations.
But I think there should be no problem with 120/second under the appropriate settings.
The speed settings used by the token in Slic3r: perimeter = 100mm/sSmall circumference = 40mm/sExternal circumference = 50mm/sInfill = 120mm/sSolid encryption = 40mm/stop solid filling = 20mm/sBridges = 30mm/sGap complement = 20mm/sMind the hardware is Gen1 Mendel Prusa, nothing fancy. . .
Finally, 0.
The 3mm nozzle is just a pain and there is no real error anymore.
What can be used on 0 with many different filament and extrusion settings.
The 7mm nozzle needs perfect tuning.
I will continue tuning to reach the 120/second target for perimeter and padding.
This nozzle has been printed faster than any of my J-
The head has been done :)
Since it is better to observe speed on large objects, print Wades extruder at 100mm/sec: increase it to 120/sec or even higher, but now my hardware is running out, LOLHad froze several printers at a speed of about 200, so either improved the hardware or stabilized at a speed of about 150/sec.
In any case, part of the cost below $20 is not a bad result.
06/06/2015: as I have seen before, this nozzle is larger and works fine, and I am starting to wonder where the problem may be.
After the extrusion failed, I decided to spend another hour in the workshop making a new stainless steel bolt with 3.
1mm holes this time.
Instead of doing a full test inside the printer, I did a test with my hands and was surprised to find out how easy I could push the filament through and produce a beautiful molten plastic
However, when I stopped for a few seconds to get a better grip, I couldn\'t push any filaments through at all.
Quick inspection found that, especially when the whole system is fully warmed up, the filament inside the stainless steel \"insulated\" expands.
On my first attempt to make the nozzle using anodized aluminum, I used the external thread on the nozzle and installed it directly into the Telfon part for installation.
There is almost no friction, and there is no expansion.
But my goal here is to make a nozzle that is slender, easy to make and can work within the range of 300 °c.
So far, the only thing that really prevents this is the connection between the actual nozzle and the bracket.
At AU, it is difficult for me to find a reasonably priced peeps, $30 cm $80 is \"cheap\", which excludes the possibility of using Peeps to make a high temperature version at this stage.
However, ABS should also work when the external thread is 8mm and installed directly on the Teflon holder, but Teflon has already started softening at these temperatures.
Graphite is far from optimal, but the friction is small and is the only attempt I have left until I find some cheap peeps or make a new nozzle with an external thread.
So go to the workshop and make a graphit connector, hopefully it will be strong enough to survive at least a decent print. 06/062015 2.
: It was found on the lathe that graphite was a night horse. it was too soft and brittle.
But I was eager to prove that it did work, and this time I made a new \"insulation\" from Teflon\"
Just for the purpose of testing!
As the video shows, it does work fine, but it also shows that someone is not careful when catching the little drill
The hole is actually 0. 7mm and not 0. 4mm :(
Anyway, it works, and in a few days I will make a more permanent solution by making a Teflon stand that holds the nozzle directly.
It won\'t be good for the real temperature, but the main thing is that the nozzle works, and the next step will be to make the stainless steel insulation with the Teflon liner.
I will now try to install the nozzle in the printer and do a test print.
It won\'t be perfect to support the result because the thin Teflon stick is very soft, but let\'s see how we go :)
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