This manual will show you how to make a double extruder for the flight motor installation of Jim. This extruder is compact in structure and light in weight Weight, double extruder that can be used for Mendel, Prusa, Wallace and Printrbot 3D printers (and others) Greg\'s Extruder is currently in use. This new design provides true double extrusion capability for these printers, allowing two colors to print or use alternative support materials. The use of supporting materials is a feature of the latest version of Slic3r. Alternative support materials eliminate restrictions on printing the highlights, allowing the printing of any shape. Note: this dual extruder is designed to be used as part of an existing or new 3D printer. Some adjustments are needed to make it suitable for any particular printer. Users can adjust themselves. While I have provided instructions to guide adaptation, the user still needs some creativity and ingenuity. Full disclosure: I have not installed a double extruder on my printer and have a full test. To verify the hardware and software features, I have squeezed the plastic through two nozzles, but the printing is waiting for the new X-compartment design. I share it so that others can help prove and improve my design. Print: two prints each ( It\'s double, remember? ) Extruder body, tension, large gear and small gear from thingiverse. I filled in 40% Please pay attention to the supporting materials used by the extruder body. Vitamins (metal parts) : Four M4x 35mm socket head bolts with nuts. (nozzles) Four M4x 16mm socket head bolts with nuts. (leveling)Two M4x? ? Socket head bolt with nut. ( X car installation) The length actually needed depends on your X-compartment. Two M3x 25mm socket head bolts with nuts and washers. (Hinge of tightening device) Four M3x 35mm socket head bolts with nuts and washers? ( Tighten the tension) Two M4x 25mm socket head bolts with nuts ( Bearing axle tension) Six M3x 10mm socket head bolts (motor mounts) Two M3x 8mm or 10mm screws with nuts. ( Small gear installation). Two M4x 50mm full- 6 nut threaded bolts ( -2 Nylocks per three)and 4 washers. (main axles)( These are hard to find. I found them at the local hardware store with Phillips pan head. M4 threaded rod can be used; Use Nylock instead of the normal nut in the gear pocket. ) Two nozzles installed using the same type or at least 16mm slots of the same length. I have used the Ubis nozzle; the J- The nozzle should also work. Others who install with 16mm slots may work but are not tested. The scad file needs to be modified for different nozzle installation methods. Two NEMA14 bipolar stepping motors. I used 3. 2 ohm coil resistance. Six 624 bearings. A 4 mmID, 5 mmOD copper tube (McMaster-Carr) Long enough to be cut into two pieces like a filament drive gear. Details follow. Double wire drive gear (Makerbot MK7 (SKU2394)– 5mm hole) Set screws m3x 5mm (2)( Silk drive gear) Carefully trim all the supporting materials on the body. Clean up flashes and any spots etc. From parts, especially gears! Clean the nozzle mounting hole so that the nozzle is properly installed and extended at the same distance. Clean up the space of the filament drive. The M3 Bolt is drilled to 3. 2mm or 1/8. 4. drill M4 bolt holes. 2mm or 5/32 or 11/64. Check each step of the hole size. ( This has the added benefit of having you read the instructions before building. This is a good thing! ) Important: drill the fine silk hole to 3. 5mm or 9/64. See the picture titled \"wire guide holes. Parts required for this step: Please refer to the picture titled \"parts connecting the extruder body. Two presses Two 624 bearings. Four M3 nuts. Four M4x 35mm bolts. Four M4 nuts ( The Kep nut is displayed but interferes with the big gear. Replace with standard nut. ) Two Ubis nozzles. ( Others can work but not tested. ) Push a 624 bearing into the \"closed\" bearing pocket. The \"closed\" pocket is the pocket where the bearing is completely surrounded by plastic (see picture). Clean the holes with Xacto or Dremel until the bearing seat is complete but tight. These pictures show the position of these bearings. Push the M3 nut into each tighten Bolt nut bag. Make sure their seats are correct and tight so you don\'t have to keep fiddling with them during assembly. See the picture titled \"tightening nut in Pocket. Back to back the main body of the extruder, with the bolt part through the inner hole on the base. Make sure the body is properly combined. Please refer to the picture titled \"connection body details 1\" and \"connection body details 2. Retreat from one of the bolts so you can install the nozzle on one of the bases. Put the bolt back on the base to keep the nozzle. Place the outer bolts of the extruder body to fix the nozzle. Repeat to another nozzle. Make sure the nozzle is installed correctly and reach out to the body at almost the same distance. Please refer to the picture titled \"installed nozzle. Again, the Kep nut is shown, but the standard M4 nut is used. Note: You may want to do a trial assembly of your double extruder without installing the nozzle, then remove the gear and remove the two bolts from one side at a time in order to install the nozzle. If you are careful, this can be done without physical separation. While it seems like a waste of time, it allows you to test the assembly of all the parts and get familiar with how the parts are assembled together and how the extruder works-it really took a lot You won\'t understand this extruder (or any other) Until you take it apart, rebuild it at least 10 times. I\'m still learning this. Parts required for this step: Please refer to the picture titled \"parts for making tension. Two pullers BodiesTwo 624 ball bearing stwo M4x 25mm bolts for axleTwo M4 nuts ( Nylock can be used) Put the bearing into the body of the tension device and slide the bolt over. Fixed with nut. Refer to the picture titled \"assembled tension. Parts required for this step: a double extruder assembly from step 1 two tension assembly from M3x25 BoltsTwo M3 nut from step 2 ( Nylock can be used) Position the tensioning device on the pivot. Pass the bolt through the hole on the pivot and fix it with the nut. Repeat on the other side. Please refer to the picture with the title \"tension device installed. The parts needed for this step: two Makerbot MK7 filament drive gears. 1 piece 4 mmID x 5 mmOD copper tube. Two m3x 5mm screws. The MK7 filament drive gear is perfect for a double extruder, with an ID of 5mm and an axis OD of 4mm in addition to one problem. To solve this problem, make the adapter using copper tube. Insert the 5mm OD x 4mm ID copper tube into the gear hole. Will be very nervous. Polish it a little if needed. You should be able to push it all the way to the gear, but it should be tight. I found it most accurate to insert the tube into the gear and then cut it. Use the Xacto knife with a sharp straight blade to cut it into length. Place the gear with the tube on a flat surface and hold the blade at a slight angle so that the edge is just against the gear, press hard down and roll the gear back and forth until the blade goes through the tube. A good technique is to go back and forth 10 to 20 times, lift the knife, rotate the gear and tube, and repeat until you go through the tube. Smoothly archive the edges. Refer to the picture \"filament gear \". ( Arcol gear is displayed. ) Use a 3/32 \"drill bit in a fixed screw hole to drill through the tube. Then thread with 3mm tap. I did it after the tube was cut. Use the m3x 5mm screw. Parts needed for this step: two axles-one M4x 50mm full- Threaded bolts are used as axles. Four M4 nuts. Four M4 washers Keep a nut on the Bolt All the time and lean it firmly against the head. Pass the axle through the gear and place the nut in the nut pocket on the large gear. Place the washer next to the gear, then screw the nut and tighten it firmly. Ensure that the gear is perpendicular to the bolt (the axle). You can choose to put the bolt epoxy into the gear if you like. Refer to the picture titled \"plane dimensions of the ground. Measured from the side of the NUT rather than the side of the gear. As shown in the figure, grind the plane of the filament drive gear fixing screw from 13mm to 18mm. Dremel with small grinding wheel is very effective in this regard. As shown in the figure, gently extend the grinding to 25mm. This allows for a simple position of the plane when the filament drive gear is installed. Parts required for this step: Please refer to the picture titled \"large gear parts. A double extruder assembly from step 3 comes from two large gear and shaft assemblies from step 5. Two ball bearings of 624. Two M4 Nylock nuts. Two filament drive gears in step 4 (not shown). Two m3x 5mm screws (not shown). ( Do not use the two M4 washers shown. ) Push a ball bearing into the pocket at the \"opening\" end of each extruder body. Through the bearing of the \"closed\" end of one extruder body, the gear is driven by wire, and the sliding shaft through another bearing. Put everything in place. Please refer to the picture titled \"Big gear installation details 1. Place the filament drive gear at the center of the filament hole, align the set screw with the plane on the shaft, and tighten the set screw. For additional safety, use a drop of Loctite on the fixing screws. Refer to the picture titled \"installation of filament gears. Don\'t worry, if the bearing on the \"open\" side seems to be loose, it will be kept in place by the tension when the tension is tightened. Check the gap between the big gear and the extruder body. Make sure that the Bolt end does not rub the gear when rotating. If so, fix it now. Will not improve in the future. Please refer to the picture titled \"Big gear installation details 2. Parts needed for this step: two 14-step motors that meet the standard. Two small gears Two M3x 8mm screws. ( Show the socket head bolts but use the fixing screws! )Two M3 Nuts. Put a nut in the pocket of the gear. Screw the fixing screw into the nut. Put the gear on the motor shaft, but it has not been tightened yet. Refer to the picture titled \"pinion assembly. Parts required for this step: the double extruder assembly in step 6. Two motors with small gears from step 7. 6 M3x 10mm bolts. Install the motor using three M3x10 bolts. The hole on the large gear can be close to the lower Bolt. Please refer to the picture titled \"motor installation. Adjust the position of the pinion and motor to get a good gear mesh and tighten the fixing screws. The gear should turn smoothly. If your motor is running warm, check if your gear is running smoothly. However, you may find that the motor runs warm even if the gear drive is smooth. If so, make a few fan brackets here and add a cooling fan. The parts required for this step: the double extruder assembly for step 8 4 M3x 35mm boltsPut bolts go through the tensioning device and screw them into the nuts in the body pocket. When you load the filaments, you can tighten them as needed. Please refer to the picture titled \"tighten the bolt. Parts required for this step: the double extruder assembly in Step 9. Two M4x? ? bolts ( The length of the X car that suits you) The two M4x12 boltsSix M4 nucking twin extruder requires some of your ingenuity as there is no standard X stand design to carry this extruder. That is, modifying any given X shipping requires only minor modifications. Dremel can do this, or make minor changes to the existing carriage design on Thingiverse. If you create a modified carriage design yourself, consider posting it to Thingiverse. For the standard Prusa X bracket, the double extruder mounting hole spacing is designed to be installed with only slight adjustment, and the nozzle can be installed with only a small amount of grinding. Note that the double extruder is located at an angle on the bracket, so the nozzle is almost parallel to the x-axis. The reference title is \"install to X carriage (Bottom) The label is entitled \"installation to X carriage (Top)”. The Bolt can be inserted into the nut in the pockets at both ends of the base to make the nozzle horizontal. The nozzle tip must be very close to the level ( Is the same height from the bed) Avoid dragging low tips on printed parts. Please refer to the picture titled \"leveling bolts. Be sure to put a fan on your X car and constantly blow to the top of the nozzle. Otherwise, the X car may melt. This fan is not shown in my picture, but it should be added to print. The fan is also required to operate the Ubis nozzle and J-correctly-Nozzle. It is very easy to connect the second extruder nozzle and the second temperature sensor to the printing plate. Simply use the connection of the bed heater and the bed temperature sensor. The next section will detail the necessary firmware changes. If you want to use a heating bed and a double extruder then you need to copy the interface on the print board. Just follow the Printrboard schematic. Driving the second extruder motor involves a bit more, but it is still not difficult. Print board ( Most other printer controller boards with on-board motor drives) There are only four stepper motor drives. The second extruder needs the fifth one, which can be easily added. What is shown is the motor drive I designed myself, but the driver for Pololu or Spark Fun should work properly. The picture titled \"stepping motor wiring\" shows my settings. The Printrboard has additional pins on the expansion head that can be used to control the new drive. The pins of the D port on the processor of the atsp90usb1286 are available and will be used. Specifically, pin 4 port D is connected to Step; Port D, pin 5 is connected to the direction; Pin 6 and port D connections are enabled. These are accessible on JP11 pins 5, 6 and 7, respectively. JP11 is shown on the schematic but marked as EXP2 on the print board. Please refer to the picture titled \"Printrboard JP11/EXP2\" and the picture labeled \"Printrboard EXP2/JP11. The firmware of the controller must be modified to control the new stepping driver, detect the temperature of the second nozzle and drive the second nozzle heater. The exact details of the changes you need to make will depend on the controller and firmware you are using. Here, I provide the details of the Printrboard version that modified the Marlin firmware. Marin seems to have used many of the same settings for both extruder. This seems to work fine as the extruder is the same. Here are the changes I made to Marin for the double extruder. In configuration. H: change the line definition temperature _ sensor _ 1 0 to define temperature _ sensor _ 1. This change makes it possible for the second extruder. Change the line definition temporary _ sensor _ Bed 1 to define temporary _ sensor _ bed 0 This will disable the bed. In configur _ adv. Change the line definition extruder 1 to define the extruder 2 in pin. H: find the part of the print board. It starts with the motherboard = 81. Now find the line definition e0 _ enable _ pin 13 and add the following line definition e1 _ step _ pin 4 for the second extruder motor driver
