build your own 3d printer filament factory (filament extruder)

It\'s too long to read: Make your own 3D printer filament!
Cheap price, high quality, speed 150-190 IPM ! (4-
5 metres per minute
Update: There is a wiring diagram now!
Read for a long time: The 3D printer is cool and the final price starts to drop.
Kickstarter\'s campaign is like a campaign from QB-
Or the M3D showed up and they were finally \"affordable.
I mean the price for $200 instead of $2. $199.
However, once you are the proud owner of a 3D printer, you will soon realize that your wallet is far from being said. No !
Of course, you need plastic filaments to print those super coat hooks and wheel clips.
Since the price of these filaments is often higher than the actual material cost, the print life depositors mentioned earlier are a bit expensive and may become a problem in the development of the growing 3D printer community, but don\'t be afraid anymore! !
Some smart gentlemen.
Hugh Lehmann and his Lehmann extruder may be mentioned here or at Filastruder. com -
Save the Day! YAY.
Very happy!
They make plastic extruder and everyone can make or buy it at a reasonable price.
However, if you are a researcher.
The first thing you think of is \"I can build this myself. . . and cheaper. . . \".
After all, building at a lower cost is the essence of DIY.
Of course, it\'s much more interesting than assembling a prefabrication kit.
Special regards, go to the xabxbox and his simple but superb low cost filament extruder!
So how much did I save when I made the silk myself?
Good question ! A lot !
Depending on the particles you get, you can start making your filaments from $1/kg.
You may ask, how long does it take to produce 1 kg of the filament? ?
Use the build I described here. . . roughly 1 hour. (
ABS/PC particles for 75mm wire).
So let\'s assume that on the Saturday of the next workshop you start at ten o\'clock A. M. and finish the hatch at five o\'clock P. M. and you can do 4-
5 kg Silk, save 125-
The $150 left you with thousands of egg cups, phone cases and other useless essentials.
Oh, yes. what about the cost of construction?
Depending on the shipping cost and the local price, I think about 130-150$.
Next step: In addition to the material List of electronic products, everything listed here can be bought at your local hardware store.
Material: Tools: take the board, cut two pieces, each 15 cm long (~6\").
They will serve as brackets for the motor and barrel.
Install the wiper motor on the motor holder and place it somewhere at the end of the substrate.
See technical drawings for estimates.
Connect it to the substrate using a steel angle.
The motor just has a threaded shaft.
In order for the coupling to be installed on the motor, I used a hexadecimal system
Nut with an outer diameter of 13mm, placed on the shaft.
When the shaft rotates and the coupling is connected, the nut is screwed loose.
To solve this problem, I\'m-
Between the connected nut and the motor shaft, place a steel bolt of 2mm.
This prevents the nut from opening.
Please see the last picture above.
Drill two holes on the other piece of wood so that the flange can be attached to the left and right of the board.
Drill another 1/2 hole for the spiral bit.
Both mounting plates require their center openings to be aligned with each other, so the screw/coupling/shaft-
The shaft can rotate freely.
Fix the flange with two 10mm threaded bars.
Sticks must be kept long enough so they can be screwed to the spiral \"rebate protection.
10 cm is good enough.
They can be cut into size later.
This will be made clear in the next step.
When the screw bit turns and transports the particles, a lot of pressure is generated.
In the worst case, this can damage the worm drive inside the wiper motor.
We need rebate protection to solve this problem.
This is done with a solid steel angle and an axial thrust ball bearing.
These ball bearings bear the great force applied to them.
Its working principle is this: The Spiral pushes backwards due to its \"backward\" steering posture.
Due to its taper, the shaft of the screw drill is pushed to the axial ball thrust bearing, and the bearing itself is also pushed to the angle of steel.
The coupling between the screw drill and the motor should always have a little gap.
This will not exert any force on the motor shaft.
Now place the steel angle with the insert rod at a certain distance from the barrel frame, so that the shaft of the screw drill can reach out about 3-4cm (~1. 5\"-2\").
The picture should also be explained.
Also, I made a short video to illustrate this.
The size of the part may be different from the size you can access.
So accurate measurements may not help you much, but the picture should let you know how to put it together.
Barrel: smooth the end and seam of the tube so that the screw bit can rotate freely.
Before inserting the opening into the pipe, tighten it onto the flange and mark the upper area and remove the barrel again.
Pick up your multi-tool and cut out the marked area at the end of the pipe the ball should drop.
Wrap around some PTFE tape at the end of the pipe.
This should prevent the pipe from turning as the spiral moves.
Keep in mind that the motor is very powerful and if there is some friction between the screw drill and the particles, it is easy for the pipe to turn again 4-
5mm is fixed with a monkey wrench.
The thread on the flange and fittings is not the perfect 90 ° angle.
Therefore, the accessory/barrel may stand at a tilt angle.
To solve this problem, some washers are needed and put them under flang if necessary.
Take a square piece of wood and drill a hole vertically to let the pipe through.
Now drill a hole that is orthogonal to the \"pipe channel\" so that the bottle can fit closely.
Now it\'s easy to disassemble by just cutting the pieces in halfassembly. Auger-
Drill bit: The screw drill may be too long, so you need to cut off the tip of it with an angle grinder.
The screw drill should extend to the heater.
Look at the picture above. Take a 5cm (2 inch)
A piece of square steel inserted into the end of the socket (
Side length about 12mm).
Place the coupling on the screw drill head and connect the motor to the motor support.
Now, the coupling should be installed well in-between.
Alternatively, you can use a spark plug socket instead of two.
But so the distance between the motors
Mounting and screw/barrel-
Adjustment is required for installation.
I used the method mentioned above because I don\'t have a spark plug socket at hand, but I will try this in the next version.
Nozzle diameter: depending on the material you process, the diameter of the hole in the nozzle will vary, and finding the right size is a process of trial and error.
For ABS/PC mixed particles with melting point between 240-280°C a 1.
In my experience, 5mm holes performed well.
Circuit breaker board: Take the faucet-
Install the filter and cut it into a diameter of 1/2 if needed.
This will serve as a circuit breaker board.
What this circuit breaker board does is to mix the molten plastic and keep it dirty (
Should not be there of course)
Eventually, small bubbles will appear during the melting process.
This helps smooth the plastic through the nozzle.
Make sure there are no pieces or shares!
You don\'t want to ruin your printer nozzle!
Take a washing machine, put it in the tail cap, and put the DIY circuit breaker board on it.
Drill a 2mm hole near the front of the faucet extender for thermocouple installation.
Bring the thermocouple wire to the length.
It should be as long as needed.
Press the belt heater on the tap extender.
It should sit at the end of the extender.
Next, take some PTFE tape and wrap around the thread of the tap extender.
This prevents extrusion threads of molten plastic.
Fix the thermocouple with some heat-resistant tape.
Then Wear the nozzle from the previous step.
Next get a root diameter about for 10 cm of 1 cm long of aluminum tube with some rigid wire will it put nozzle front.
This gives the filament a good curl when it cools down.
Thank you for your thoughts.
Now wrap the insulation around the heater so that the nozzle is covered as well.
The front of the nozzle and motor needs some cooling.
It is still very hot and soft when the filament leaves the nozzle.
To prevent it from affecting g-
Cooling is very important when the force drops.
The more you cool, the more you can control the diameter of the filament in the future.
While the motor generates some heat, the fan helps keep it cool.
Now that most of the mechanical parts have been installed, it is time to install the electronic products.
But before that, take a piece of wood as the front housing, arrange the potentiometer of 3 rocket switches, PID controllers and motor controllers, and fix them with some hot glue.
The main powerConnect connects the power cord to the power supply via the rocker/t switch (
L, N and ground ports).
The PID Temperature Controller connects the PID Temperature Controller to the power supply through the rocker switch.
Solid state relay & Band heater connects the 12 v port of the solid state relay to the PID (Port 6 and 8)
Connect Port 1 of the SSR to 220 V (EU)/120V (US)port (Port L)
Power supply.
Connect port 2 of SSR to one of the ports with heater.
Another free port with heater is connected to the N port of the power supply.
What is SSR actually doing? ?
The belt heater is a 220 V component, but the PID is only running on 12 V.
Therefore, the SSR connects the 12 v PID with the 220 V heater.
PID turns the SSR on and off if needed.
When it is turned on, the 220 V is connected to the belt heater and it will warm up.
If the relay is off, the ergo is powered off with the heater not connected to 220 V.
The idea is to control a high-power device (Heater)
Use low power devices (PID).
The motor controller connects the motor controller to the power supply through the rocker switch.
The motor is then connected to the motor controller.
The 2nd speed setting of the motor uses pin output.
The pins of different models are different and you must first find out which pins are used for speed setting.
The two fans are connected to the same port as the motor is connected to the motor controller.
I am not sure if the wiring diagram is allowed to be published due to license reasons, so I will link to the corresponding website. 1)
Filastruder Wiring Diagram 2)
Filabot wiring diagram in the early morning (scroll down)3)
This is the link to the Sestos pid I use.
Different extrusion settings are required for different materials.
For pure ABS, the temperature at 190 °c is about correct.
The PLA needs less heat, and the ABS/PC mixture needs a higher temperature, such as 260-270°C.
The Sestos PID is able to automatically adjust to the desired temperature.
PID controller settings: to enable auto-adjustment, press settings for 3 seconds.
You will now see \"HIAL\" on the display \".
Now use the down button until you see \"Ctrl\" and adjust it to \"2 \".
This is the number of the Auto-Tuning function.
Press \"SET\" again until you see the temperature reading again.
Right after all EP1. 8 options.
Set the desired temperature using the up and down buttons and wait for the display to stop flashing (~10-15 minutes).
Start the motor and start squeezing.
You have to play around at the speed of the motor.
From my experience, ABS/PC is very good to set the half speed of potentiometer to 270 °C.