over 7000 lumen bike light
by：SAN
2019-11-27
Overview: This hack is for those who like to ride at night or want to get into it (
Great, never too many people, nice, cool)
But think about the lights that are 300 lumens, don\'t cut them, and don\'t have 1000 cash.
2000 Lumens lighting system (
About $500-
$1,000 (IX).
Even if there is 1000 lumens, it is not enough, plus some systems can only last about 2 hours at maximum power.
Still, I have hope because I built this slightly excessive bike light for my mountain bike.
The light you see in these photos is made by myself and it has a maximum brightness of 7,000 lumens and a battery life of 2.
5 hours while it can run 3000 lumens at low power over 6 hours.
The lamp is made of 6 cree xml u2 LEDs mounted on copper and aluminum heating
The sink maintains a good dissipation of 60 watts.
To power this lamp, I built a 150 watt lamp
Lithium polymer battery pack for hours-
Closed in extruded aluminum shell.
I built this case so it can be easily attached to any standard water war cage (
You can see on my bike that the water bottle cage happens to be at the bottom of the frame, which is why the GT decided to hang completely there that year).
The weight of the lamp, battery and all wires is less than 3. 5 pounds (
The battery is 2 points of fat. 9 pounds).
I also connected some other cool things like the rear red light and the power level indicator so you know when you have to charge.
Charging is done with my newly bought rc car and helis\'s lithium polymer balance charger (
Spent me $30 on ebay).
I ended up building the whole building for about $150 (
If I build a half size battery pack, it\'s only $100).
For those who know high power LEDs, it is necessary to operate at a constant voltage and current flow to keep them in constant use (
Guaranteed to last 50,000 hours).
So I have 3 parallel dc-
DC converters with 93% efficiency adjust them and output full power of 20 W, 40 W or 60 W to produce more than 7000 lumens of light, but the lens efficiency I use is 92%, I got about 6600 of the available lumens.
In contrast, the standard headlights of the car provide 1000lm, while the D2 s xenon metal halogen arc headlights you can purchase provide about 3000 lm (
So double, this is what I used).
I can\'t imagine that more power is useful or very easy to create (
Running this power can cause you a problem with heat dissipation, which makes me do a lot of tests to get a good rough design)
But I think I will keep trying.
I will describe in detail the parts I use and how to build the lights.
Accessories list: Battery: 18 li po 2200 mah batteries.
I bought three.
There are 33 on the hobby kingrand om lenths, and the length is 18 gage wire.
3 2 s lipo battery protection circuits found on ebay1 aluminum shell 2 car Kill Switch 3 dc-
DC converters found on ebayaluminum and copper sheets for heating various DC chip radiators
For DC-DC converter s3 20 am p schottky diode
Dc modulation 2 button switch for rc helis2 high current rc power connector battery insulation tape2 22 meter 6 series lipo charging wire extender Rear Light and Power Indicator
About $2 per shipment on ebay)
Battery Charger: I-
Max B6 lipo charger purchased on ebay for $35: 6 cree xml u2 leds6 75 in.
Copper end for Cpu package 1 75 W radiator (
Fry\'s electronics costs $8)
There are at least 0 small brass screws found on the hobby store4x4 copper plate. 060 in.
I will use the $3 $6 lens bottle holder I found on ebay for LEDs (
Found on ebay, im uses 2 9o, 2 45o and 2 60o lenses)
Tail light: 2 12-volt led light strips (
For car use)
DownTools: welding ironHack sawMulti-
The Meterdrillgrinderfiles build process is a bit long and can be a bit tricky if you don\'t have experience with electrical systems or don\'t know about heat transfer.
I\'m going to go ahead and add steps to build your own light as easily as possible, but please let me know first about the parts you need most help with and the ones I need most.
I will continue to check the comments on the questions and answer them as best I can.
If you have any questions about what I have done, please ask again.
I spent some time discussing heat dissipation (
You will try to run 6 cree xml at full load for a long time).
I also made these kind of light systems for friends, family and college, and if you can\'t make a lamp yourself, I can build a lamp for you (
It\'s a bit tricky, and I guess that\'s why they spend so much money, but my cost is much lower, brighter and longer duration)
Temperature management if you want to have this powerful lighting system, you need to pay close attention to your heat dissipation method.
I have to go through some prototypes before I find a prototype that I am satisfied.
Here are some of the nerds that you would like to know about hot messaging.
There are three ways to dissipate heat, namely conduction, convection and radiation (
Median heat transfer is not required).
Unless you have a temperature difference of about 100 degrees Celsius, the effect of radiation is very small (
Because the equation has temperature to the fourth power).
In our case, the heat transmitted through conduction will be much higher than the heat transmitted through convection (
This is due to our material selection and air properties).
Copper spreads heat from LEDs evenly there because copper is a very good thermal conductor (
About twice as much as aluminum).
The reason why we didn\'t make the whole radiator with copper is the cost and weight (
Copper is very dense and expensive compared to aluminum).
I have a photo of the test run I did with free convection (
No movement of wind or air)
And a fan used in 7-8 mph (
Speed easily seen on mtb).
Maximum operating temperature (
60 W full power)
The led given on the manufacturing site is 150 degrees Celsius at the junction between the aluminum pcb drilling and the copper radiator board.
I drilled a small hole in the copper plate behind the led at the top right so I could put the thermocouple in and measure the junction temperature.
Maximum temperature (
This seems to reach the maximum in 45 minutes)
The temperature of free convection is 137 degrees Celsius.
This is at a good level (
It\'s too high for me though)
For lights and mounts, but not what you want to touch.
I agree with that though, because I will never use my lights to get my bike to sit there (
Although if I do this, it doesn\'t hurt the lights or the bike, you may burn yourself).
Through the forced convection test, the maximum temperature at the junction of the led and copper radiator plates is 57 degrees Celsius.
I also took the thermocouple for an hour and recorded the maximum junction temperature of 47 degrees Celsius running at full power.
This is a good working temperature (
It\'s just warm to touch).
I did all the tests with k-
Type thermocouple with rated accuracy of 0.
5 degrees Celsius.
This is the test I did to make sure my initial calculation is correct (
You always want to test it because sometimes your calculated value can be bad).
Since then, I have used the light for 5 night rides and I checked the temperature with my hands (
I know it\'s not accurate)
And it will never be a little warmer than it is.
Great, never too many people, nice, cool)
But think about the lights that are 300 lumens, don\'t cut them, and don\'t have 1000 cash.
2000 Lumens lighting system (
About $500-
$1,000 (IX).
Even if there is 1000 lumens, it is not enough, plus some systems can only last about 2 hours at maximum power.
Still, I have hope because I built this slightly excessive bike light for my mountain bike.
The light you see in these photos is made by myself and it has a maximum brightness of 7,000 lumens and a battery life of 2.
5 hours while it can run 3000 lumens at low power over 6 hours.
The lamp is made of 6 cree xml u2 LEDs mounted on copper and aluminum heating
The sink maintains a good dissipation of 60 watts.
To power this lamp, I built a 150 watt lamp
Lithium polymer battery pack for hours-
Closed in extruded aluminum shell.
I built this case so it can be easily attached to any standard water war cage (
You can see on my bike that the water bottle cage happens to be at the bottom of the frame, which is why the GT decided to hang completely there that year).
The weight of the lamp, battery and all wires is less than 3. 5 pounds (
The battery is 2 points of fat. 9 pounds).
I also connected some other cool things like the rear red light and the power level indicator so you know when you have to charge.
Charging is done with my newly bought rc car and helis\'s lithium polymer balance charger (
Spent me $30 on ebay).
I ended up building the whole building for about $150 (
If I build a half size battery pack, it\'s only $100).
For those who know high power LEDs, it is necessary to operate at a constant voltage and current flow to keep them in constant use (
Guaranteed to last 50,000 hours).
So I have 3 parallel dc-
DC converters with 93% efficiency adjust them and output full power of 20 W, 40 W or 60 W to produce more than 7000 lumens of light, but the lens efficiency I use is 92%, I got about 6600 of the available lumens.
In contrast, the standard headlights of the car provide 1000lm, while the D2 s xenon metal halogen arc headlights you can purchase provide about 3000 lm (
So double, this is what I used).
I can\'t imagine that more power is useful or very easy to create (
Running this power can cause you a problem with heat dissipation, which makes me do a lot of tests to get a good rough design)
But I think I will keep trying.
I will describe in detail the parts I use and how to build the lights.
Accessories list: Battery: 18 li po 2200 mah batteries.
I bought three.
There are 33 on the hobby kingrand om lenths, and the length is 18 gage wire.
3 2 s lipo battery protection circuits found on ebay1 aluminum shell 2 car Kill Switch 3 dc-
DC converters found on ebayaluminum and copper sheets for heating various DC chip radiators
For DC-DC converter s3 20 am p schottky diode
Dc modulation 2 button switch for rc helis2 high current rc power connector battery insulation tape2 22 meter 6 series lipo charging wire extender Rear Light and Power Indicator
About $2 per shipment on ebay)
Battery Charger: I-
Max B6 lipo charger purchased on ebay for $35: 6 cree xml u2 leds6 75 in.
Copper end for Cpu package 1 75 W radiator (
Fry\'s electronics costs $8)
There are at least 0 small brass screws found on the hobby store4x4 copper plate. 060 in.
I will use the $3 $6 lens bottle holder I found on ebay for LEDs (
Found on ebay, im uses 2 9o, 2 45o and 2 60o lenses)
Tail light: 2 12-volt led light strips (
For car use)
DownTools: welding ironHack sawMulti-
The Meterdrillgrinderfiles build process is a bit long and can be a bit tricky if you don\'t have experience with electrical systems or don\'t know about heat transfer.
I\'m going to go ahead and add steps to build your own light as easily as possible, but please let me know first about the parts you need most help with and the ones I need most.
I will continue to check the comments on the questions and answer them as best I can.
If you have any questions about what I have done, please ask again.
I spent some time discussing heat dissipation (
You will try to run 6 cree xml at full load for a long time).
I also made these kind of light systems for friends, family and college, and if you can\'t make a lamp yourself, I can build a lamp for you (
It\'s a bit tricky, and I guess that\'s why they spend so much money, but my cost is much lower, brighter and longer duration)
Temperature management if you want to have this powerful lighting system, you need to pay close attention to your heat dissipation method.
I have to go through some prototypes before I find a prototype that I am satisfied.
Here are some of the nerds that you would like to know about hot messaging.
There are three ways to dissipate heat, namely conduction, convection and radiation (
Median heat transfer is not required).
Unless you have a temperature difference of about 100 degrees Celsius, the effect of radiation is very small (
Because the equation has temperature to the fourth power).
In our case, the heat transmitted through conduction will be much higher than the heat transmitted through convection (
This is due to our material selection and air properties).
Copper spreads heat from LEDs evenly there because copper is a very good thermal conductor (
About twice as much as aluminum).
The reason why we didn\'t make the whole radiator with copper is the cost and weight (
Copper is very dense and expensive compared to aluminum).
I have a photo of the test run I did with free convection (
No movement of wind or air)
And a fan used in 7-8 mph (
Speed easily seen on mtb).
Maximum operating temperature (
60 W full power)
The led given on the manufacturing site is 150 degrees Celsius at the junction between the aluminum pcb drilling and the copper radiator board.
I drilled a small hole in the copper plate behind the led at the top right so I could put the thermocouple in and measure the junction temperature.
Maximum temperature (
This seems to reach the maximum in 45 minutes)
The temperature of free convection is 137 degrees Celsius.
This is at a good level (
It\'s too high for me though)
For lights and mounts, but not what you want to touch.
I agree with that though, because I will never use my lights to get my bike to sit there (
Although if I do this, it doesn\'t hurt the lights or the bike, you may burn yourself).
Through the forced convection test, the maximum temperature at the junction of the led and copper radiator plates is 57 degrees Celsius.
I also took the thermocouple for an hour and recorded the maximum junction temperature of 47 degrees Celsius running at full power.
This is a good working temperature (
It\'s just warm to touch).
I did all the tests with k-
Type thermocouple with rated accuracy of 0.
5 degrees Celsius.
This is the test I did to make sure my initial calculation is correct (
You always want to test it because sometimes your calculated value can be bad).
Since then, I have used the light for 5 night rides and I checked the temperature with my hands (
I know it\'s not accurate)
And it will never be a little warmer than it is.
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